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Routes in Redbud Canyon

23 Red S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dogfishhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Filthy Lucre S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Five Minute Solution S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Intentions S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gyppo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
In It To Win It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Jack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mach 5 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pink S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quicklime S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shocker, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Shot S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Description

This area is packed with single and multi pitch routes from 5.6 to 5.11. The north side (south facing) is more prickly rock while the south side (north facing) is gray, well featured limestone with runnels and pockets.

The canyon runs east to west with the longer routes on the north facing side.

This area is shady and tends to be cooler climbing. Count on about ten degrees colder than Mesquite for starters.

Some of the routes have loose rock (not that much traffic yet). Take care and consider both belayer and follower wearing helmets especially on the multi pitch routes near the end of the Upper Canyon.

Fun spot and due to get more popular especially on account of quality routes and modest grades.

Current guidebooks are Bill and Misty's excellent Limestone Bible and Todd Goss' updated Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah (2015 edition).

Getting There

Approach the Upper Canyon by hiking up the trail from the parking lot. There's a split where one can go to the main Grail wall, or, head down and across the wash to the Sacred Trust wall. Either trail will do.

From the main Grail wall: hike below the length the base of the Grail wall and follow the trail to the east. The trail heads towards but stays above the wash finally dropping into the wash between the left and right walls of the Upper Canyon.

From Sacred Trust: Follow the trail to the right (south) edge of the Sacred Trust wall, drop down into the wash, cross, and connect with the trail coming from the main Grail wall. Continue up wash to routes.

Upper Canyon area more efficiently gained from the trail that goes towards the Sacred Trust wall.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Redbud Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
The Shocker
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Pink
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Quicklime
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 10
Filthy Lucre
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Mach 5
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
Five Minute Solution
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Triple Shot
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Little Jack
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
Good Intentions
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 7
23 Red
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Dogfishhead
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Gyppo
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Shocker
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Pink
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Quicklime
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Filthy Lucre
 10
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Mach 5
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Five Minute Solution
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Triple Shot
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Little Jack
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Good Intentions
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
23 Red
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Dogfishhead
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Gyppo
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Redbud Canyon »

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