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Cleavage Rock

California > San Francisco B… > E Bay Area > Indian Joe Caves

Description

Cleavage Rock.

Getting There

The large cleaver shaped rock on the southwest side of Indian Joe Caves.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Highstep Face Traverse
TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c V-easy 3
 20
The Cleavage
TR, Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 0
Cleavage Arete
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 0
The Ramp
TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Decolletage
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Miss Cleaver
Sport
V4 6B R
 2
Shoelace Joe
TR, Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Highstep Face Traverse
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
The Cleavage
 20
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c V-easy 3 TR, Boulder
Cleavage Arete
 0
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
The Ramp
 0
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Decolletage
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Miss Cleaver
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Shoelace Joe
 2
V4 6B R TR, Boulder

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Another view of the three face climbs on the Northwest boulder (Left Side) viewed from the south.  The Cleavage is the obvious chimney in the middle and there is a 5.8 face climb just to the right of the Cleavage.  The Ramp 5.7 is further to the right.
[Hide Photo] Another view of the three face climbs on the Northwest boulder (Left Side) viewed from the south. The Cleavage is the obvious chimney in the middle and there is a 5.8 face climb just to the right…
Left to Right Bat Crack 5.5, Arete to left Face 5.12c Back and top view of The Cleavage 5.4, Arete to the Right Face 5.11a
[Hide Photo] Left to Right Bat Crack 5.5, Arete to left Face 5.12c Back and top view of The Cleavage 5.4, Arete to the Right Face 5.11a
View of the backside ofCleavage Rock from the top of Little Eiger. Also includes the top of Edge Rock in the bottom left. This is looking down into the central area.
[Hide Photo] View of the backside ofCleavage Rock from the top of Little Eiger. Also includes the top of Edge Rock in the bottom left. This is looking down into the central area.
Anchors at the top of Cleavage rock.
[Hide Photo] Anchors at the top of Cleavage rock.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John F Kim
San Jose, CA
[Hide Comment] When you arrive at the crag, there are 3 ways to approach Cleavage Rock.

1) From the little meadow amongst the boulders (and at the top of a very shallow ravine) on the southwest corner, scramble up and to the left (Class 2/3). You will reach The Cleavage then if you go up a little more there is a nice flat belay area below the left side of the west face of the north rock. Keep going around clockwise to find Cote Memorial Wall on your right then round the corner to find some flat rocks to belay the Edge Rock routes (on your left) or East face routes of the Cleavage north rock (on your right). Then scramble down a short distance (Class 3) to see the eastern end of the Cleavage with Bat Crack on your right. To finish descending from Bat Crack requires a brief Class 4 scramble/downclimb then a Class 2 scramble down to the lunch/staging meadow.

2) From the little meadow, scramble up east, passing the face/slab climb on your left. Some Class 2 scrambling counter-clockwise around the southern end of Cleavage Rock followed by a big step up to the left (briefly Class 4?) will bring you to Bat Crack on your left. Another easy (Class 2 with one Class 3 move) scramble up brings you to the belay area for Edge Rock (and Freeway) on your right. Continue left around the north rock to find Cote Memorial Wall and the 5.8/5.9 face climbs, then scramble down (Class 2/3) to reach the Cleavage.

3) Take the climbers trail southeast around the crag, skirting the bouldering rocks. Climb up a steep path and you will end up east and uphill of the crag, at the top of Little Eiger. From there you have two ways down to the belay area for Edge Rock and Cleavage Rock. Either downclimb 15' on a big crack (5.3/V1?) or continue 20' north/counter-clockwise and scramble down (Class 2) through the trees. From that belay area, you can go to the right (Class 1) for Cote Memorial Wall and the west face of the north rock, followed by a short Class 2/3 down to the Cleavage. Or go left from the Edge Rock belay area and butt-slide/scramble down (Class 3) for Bat Crack. From Bat Crack, you can downclimb (briefly Class 4) back to the lunch meadow.

I added Fixe stainless steel rap rings to the anchors at the top of Cote Memorial Wall and quick links + rap rings to the middle bolt pair on the south side of Cleavage Rock. Hopefully they will stay there for a while. The rap rings added on the south side can really only be used to rap down the west face, not the east face (Bat Crack), since the anchors and rings are on the west side of the ridge edge. Jan 21, 2020