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Routes in Screaming Besengi

East Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Elevation: 4,877 ft
GPS: 34.849, -111.735 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 265 total · 11/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Feb 29, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

A triangular tower just east of Firecat Spire. The original route follows a very cool chimney system.

Getting There

Follow the directions into the Heart of Marg's Draw and Firecat Spire area. Once the hiker's trail ends hits some slickrock before Grand Orcaface Spire is reached, cut right (southeast) and hit a major wash. This part of the approach is always elusive to me, and I've yet to figure out the best means of accessing the wash from the trail. Once in the wash, follow it east, passing under Orcaface, until below the Heart of Marg's Draw/Firecat Spire area. Cut out of the main wash in a subsidiary wash to the north (toward Fisher King/Firecat) for a couple of hundred yards. Leave the subsidiary wash, and diagonal right (northeast) up open ridge and slickrock patches to pass below the southern toe of the Screaming Besengi. A steep rubble gully runs along the very base of the east face of the Besengi, and leads to the base of the route and a decent staging area.

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