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Routes in South Cliffs

Cast Iron T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Iron Arch T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Iron Maiden T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Iron Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Ore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ironing Board T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soft Iron T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Iron T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Elevation: 2,430 ft
GPS: 44.126, -71.238 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,040 total, 94/month
Shared By: chinos on Feb 25, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

The South Cliffs of Iron Mountain offer moderate slab climbing with great views. The top of the cliff is capped by a short vertical headwall with a few hard pitches. The slabs have been set up with rap anchors at the base of the headwall for those seeking to stay on moderate terrain. All of the climbs have been established in a ground up fashion with all protection bolts placed free on the lead. There is no documentation of climbing that I have found, but these cliffs have most likely been explored by generations of valley climbers. There is potential for more great moderate pitches.

Getting There

The South Cliffs of Iron Mountain can be accessed two ways.

Option 1: From the intersection of Route 16 and Route 302 in Glen, take Route 16 north heading towards Mt. Washington for 2.5 miles into the town of Jackson. Take a left at the golf course onto Green Hill road. Follow Green Hill road for 1.2 miles and turn left onto Iron Mountain road. Continue on Iron Mountain road and stay left at the fork at 0.3 miles. Continue up the hill and park at a pullout marked with a parking sign.
Cross the road to the edge of a field with a trail sign on a tree. This is the Iron Mountain trail head. Follow the foot path through the field with beautiful views of the presidential range. Follow the eroded trail marked with wooden stakes and small cairns to the summit at 0.8 miles. Follow the path downhill for another 0.7 miles to a fork. Take a right and walk across rock for 0.1 miles to the top of the South Cliffs. The approach will take about 1-1.5 hours. Rappel the cliff or bushwhack down to the base. Going left at the fork will lead down to the iron mine in 0.2 miles.

If you like to bushwhack I recommend option two…
Option 2: From the intersection of Route 16 and Route 302 in Glen, take Route 302 west heading towards the town of Bartlett. Drive for 1.0 mile and take a right onto Jericho Road. Follow Jericho Road for 2.5 miles to a gate and park. Bushwhack heading northeast following overgrown logging roads. Look for the water bars and keep the stream on your right. Eventually the road will open up with occasional cairns. Take a left and following a short run of flagging tape that gets you heading straight uphill to the base of the South Cliffs. The approach will take 1-1.5 hours.

8 Total Climbs

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Photos

john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Dude! It's about fucking time

I used to scope these crags from harvey's condo

have you done the arete yet ? Feb 25, 2016

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