There is now a two-pitch sport route with all titanium bolts right up the middle of the north face. It is rated 5.11-. Get on it.

The face is in the shade until around 11am in the summer, 1pm in the shoulder seasons. It is highly recommended to start early, as the torching heat will make the climb a lot less enjoyable.

At the NW end of Daxi Lane, turn right past a gated hostel or something (not left down to a dry creek and concrete bridge). Continue down this gravel road until it dips down into the dry creek and park wherever convenient. There will be a rusty locked gate in front of an abandoned camping lot.

Walk east up the dry creek bed for about 50m. Stay left at the fork, walking out of the creek bed into the forest. You will soon cross the creek again - go straight. As soon as the pasture and the rusty iron fence come into view, hop it and make for the obvious pinnacle of rock.

Approach time is 45-60 minutes.