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Xiao Jian Shan

International > Asia > Taiwan > Kenting NP

Description

The rock type is a consolidated conglomerate, similar to Long Dong, but also very much like the welded tuff of Smith Rock. There is an incredible amount of bouldering potential, along with 40-50m routes. Almost no trad potential, however. Bring the drill!

Getting There

The approach for Xiao Jian Shan can be done from the north, off of white-200 from the town of Yongjing (永靖). It is approximately 50 minutes drive from Fangshan train station and can be accessed by scooter. From the end of the road at 21.984618, 120.800956 you can enter the jungle on an obvious path, then drop down into the Baishami River (白沙彌溪). Although Google indicates there are roads, this is definitely not the case, though hiking the riverbed is simple as it's basically dry. From here, it's an easy hike with signs of recent passage, though the turnoff up the hill to the pasture isn't very obvious. Go uphill until you arrive at the fence, then traverse the fence until you find a gap. Pass through this and go straight to the rocks. There is a path through the brush to the base of the tallest rock. There are many other cliffs, but getting to them would require a machete. Total approach time is 60-90 minutes.

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Southeast aspect of The Sword
[Hide Photo] Southeast aspect of The Sword
Those features!
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More bouldering!
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Sword & Shield, from a distance
[Hide Photo] Sword & Shield, from a distance
More bouldering!
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Bouldering!
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The most likely start to an FA attempt of The Sword
[Hide Photo] The most likely start to an FA attempt of The Sword
The Shield
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The Shield
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South face of The Sword
[Hide Photo] South face of The Sword
East face of The Sword
[Hide Photo] East face of The Sword