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Routes in South Sudan - Jebel Kujur

Black Mamba S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Corner Shop S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leap of Faith S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Meat Grinder S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rumble in the Jungle S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 2,190 ft
GPS: 4.844, 31.549 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,147 total · 46/month
Shared By: Frances Fierst on Feb 6, 2016
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Description

Not many people will ever make their way to South Sudan, but for the handful of expats living and working in Juba, this is a little slice of heaven. Just south and west of town is Jebel Kujur. A regular group of expats meets most Sunday mornings for our weekly pilgrimage to the rock. Others have left gear behind so that people without gear can join. People who are new to climbing are also welcome to join.

The climbing mostly takes place on one of the largest granite cliffs just below Jebel's summit. In early 2016 there were about ~12 routes, all bolted and with bolted chains/lower-offs, from ~5.8 to at least 5.12, with potential for more. Don't be put off by the hard starts - many climbs easy off considerably after the first few moves. The cliff goes into shade in the morning, meaning climbing is still possible even on hot days. There is a potential to develop more routes on the main crag and other rocks and areas are being explored as well.

For more information and to meet other climbers, contact the "Juba Climbing Friends" group on Facebook.

Getting There

Look for Jebel Lodge on Google maps. Contnue south on the Juba Bypass road (dirt road) for about 600 meters. Look for a very rocky road on the right. If you have a regular truck, park here. If you have a Land Cruiser, turn right and maneuver up the rocky hill. Park a short ways up the road at fence by a small intersection. It is about a 20 minute walk up hill from here. The rock face can be identified by looking at the photos and locating the two large trees at the crag. The trail is non-descript but if you keep your head up, you will be able to find a path to the rock.

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