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Klettergarten Stetten

International > Europe > Germany > Neckarland (Stuttgart…

Description

Small yet very popular former sandstone quarry about 20km east of Stuttgart. This is where they got the sandstone blocks used to build the terrace walls for the nearby vineyards.

Can be busy on weekends due to beautiful surroundings, ideal spot for beginners and short drive from Stuttgart.

The rock is sandstone of good quality. Friction is fantastic and not crumbly or dusty at all.

FAMILY FRIENDLY?
If you have kids this is the best place to climb in the area. There are multiple benches to sit on, plastic chairs around, a large flat area for kids to play with room for frisbee, ball etc, completely even ground since it's in a "pit" (i.e. former small quarry), you're surrounded so they can't run off. The approach hike is also stroller friendly.

PROTECTION:
Bolts are all shiny new glue ins with ramshorn anchors on top of a few routes. Routes are well protected but due to how short the climbs are, some first bolts are high and many routes people just do on top rope either way due to ground fall or ledge fall potential on the hard ones.

ROUTES:
There are ~46 routes in a good mix of grades with virtual ladders for kids and hard blank faces for the advanced. Walls are all very short, just 6-8 meters high. There are four sections (called "Sektoren" here) to climb: Z-Riss; Wulschd; Piazriss; Faultasche, but don't let that fool you, it's still a small area.

Also note that although all routes are named, some are just simple descriptions like "Riss" (crack) or "Wand" (wall) etc. and thus you'll see the same name a few times, but in different sections.

There are often plastic chairs around for anyone's use as well as a fire pit which is up the small stairs where Rukanor Riss is.

Getting There

Take the B29 exit to Kernen towards Stetten (there are several ways though). Turn into Klosterstrasse, turn right at the traffic circle and after 100 meters left into Steigstrasse.

Drive uphill until you reach the "hiking parking lot" called Wanderparkplatz Kammerforst, which is by the "Saengerheim" building there. If you've gone the right way, there's no way to miss it.

From the parking lot, DONT take the trail into the forest but instead follow the paved road that goes by Saengerheim for awhile. You'll pass vineyards on the right and a big boulder on the left. The road turns and you'll see a small area with some logs setup as a stretching station for runners and hikers.

Follow the path into the woods. 200 meters after the red/white barrier (Schranke), watch for an unmarked path going downhill to your right. Follow it about 1 minute and the crag is on the right.

Car to crag is about 10 minutes. The path is stroller friendly until the very end, but its not hard to just carry it a short distance at that point.

GPS: (48°46'25.8"N 9°20'39.9"E)

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
Rukanor Riss
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 0
Wand
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 0
Neue Wand
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Linke Kante
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
Z-Riss (z-crack)
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 0
Dunkelkammer
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 0
Psycho
Sport
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 1
Rampe
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
Die Kante
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 0
Dachl
Sport
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 1
Riss
Sport
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 0
Variante
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 0
Waendle
Sport
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 0
Abstiegswaendle
Sport
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 0
Rissle
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 0
Neue Wand (Wulschd Sektor)
Sport
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 0
Rampe (Wulschd)
Sport
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 1
Geneigte Wand
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
Wulschd
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 0
Betonpfeiler direkt
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 0
Rechte Variante (of BetonPfeiler)
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
Piazriss
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 0
Rieselriss
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 0
Dynamo
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 0
Ohrlabba
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 1
Asterix Wand
Sport
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 0
Klemmblock
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Schraeger Piazriss
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 0
Strecker
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 0
Idefix
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 0
Variante (of Idefix)
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 0
Piazriss 2
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 0
Runde Kante
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 0
Schuppe (Obelix) direkt
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 0
Schuppe (Obelix)
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 2
Gelbe Kante
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 2
Klemmriss
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 0
Breiter Riss
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 0
Nix wia Nuff
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 0
Faustriss
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 0
Schwaebische Faultasche
Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 0
Danke Georg
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rukanor Riss
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Wand
 0
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Neue Wand
 0
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Linke Kante
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Z-Riss (z-crack)
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Dunkelkammer
 0
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Psycho
 0
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Rampe
 1
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport
Die Kante
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Dachl
 0
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Riss
 1
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport
Variante
 0
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport
Waendle
 0
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Abstiegswaendle
 0
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Sport
Rissle
 0
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Sport
Neue Wand (Wulschd Sektor)
 0
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rampe (Wulschd)
 0
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Sport
Geneigte Wand
 1
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport
Wulschd
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Betonpfeiler direkt
 0
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rechte Variante (of BetonPf…
 0
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Piazriss
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Rieselriss
 0
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Dynamo
 0
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Ohrlabba
 0
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Asterix Wand
 1
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Klemmblock
 0
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport
Schraeger Piazriss
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Strecker
 0
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Idefix
 0
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Variante (of Idefix)
 0
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Piazriss 2
 0
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Runde Kante
 0
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Schuppe (Obelix) direkt
 0
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Schuppe (Obelix)
 0
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Gelbe Kante
 2
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Klemmriss
 2
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Breiter Riss
 0
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Nix wia Nuff
 0
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Faustriss
 0
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Schwaebische Faultasche
 0
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Danke Georg
 0
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Another view of the crag
[Hide Photo] Another view of the crag
View of center part of the wall
[Hide Photo] View of center part of the wall
the center wall
[Hide Photo] the center wall
The vineyards right near one of the klettergarten entrances
[Hide Photo] The vineyards right near one of the klettergarten entrances
The crag. In the sun midday but still with shady areas on the sides
[Hide Photo] The crag. In the sun midday but still with shady areas on the sides
view from the top of the crag
[Hide Photo] view from the top of the crag
Saengerheim, parking lot
[Hide Photo] Saengerheim, parking lot
one of two entrances to the crag, this coming from the vineyard
[Hide Photo] one of two entrances to the crag, this coming from the vineyard
DAV section responsible for taking care of the area
[Hide Photo] DAV section responsible for taking care of the area
There's even a fire pit off to the side near Rukanor Riss
[Hide Photo] There's even a fire pit off to the side near Rukanor Riss
beginning of the approach hike on asphalted road by the vineyards
[Hide Photo] beginning of the approach hike on asphalted road by the vineyards
Saengerheim, stop by for a beer after climbing
[Hide Photo] Saengerheim, stop by for a beer after climbing

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] gritty sandstone, but super short walls. Jul 22, 2018