Above the Second Waterfall Climbing
|GPS:||35.71, -114.922 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||DesertDan on Jan 19, 2016|
DescriptionBetween the Second and Fourth Waterfall, a few hundred feet up wash, is one of the most concentrated areas per square foot of climbable rock in Keyhole. This area is hard to see from a distance and has the feel of a hidden canyon.
There's as much climbing history here as anywhere at Keyhole. The old 1/4 inch button heads scattered around are most likely from Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton or others from that era. Lots of the cracks have pin scars and there might be a few still in the rock but most have been scavenged by subsequent climbers. Lynn Robison, Joe Hancock, spent some time, Anthony Williams, Ralph and John Day spent much more time climbing in this part of Keyhole from the mid 80s to early 90s. Information in this area is sketchy but it'd be safe to assume that all of the cracks 5.10 or less that protect naturally, even if it's run out, have likely been climbed before.
Getting ThereApproach #1 From the mouth of Keyhole Canyon, hike left (north) to the smaller side canyon. Go right, after passing the last outcrops of rock a short ways up the canyon, up the easy hill. At the top the trail is more obvious. Continue south along the rim of the upper canyon until it drops into the wash above the last (Fourth) waterfall. Rap in.
Approach #2 From the base of the first waterfall, hike 100' up the Death Couloir (the one on the right) until you're even with the height of the waterfall. Then, fourth class left across exposed ledges back to the notch above the waterfall. Hike up canyon, climb one of the routes on the Second Waterfall.
Approach #3: From the town of Nelson, take the Old Nelson Hwy (aka dirt road) until you get to the turn-off to the FAA towers at the top of the hill. Follow this road about halfway up until an obscure jeep trail cuts up & across the hill to the right. Follow this narrow and exposed road over the pass and down into the valley all the way to the top of the upper most waterfall. Rap in.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
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