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Routes in Lemon Resevoir-Transfermation Buttress

Elevation: 8,430 ft
GPS: 37.461, -107.68 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Steve Elder on Jan 18, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This is the buttress on west side of Florida River downstream from the main West Side climbing area. It is made of granite, and it gets morning sun and afternoon shade.

Be aware that all these routes were put up in winter when the rock was frozen. They can be climbed in summer, but some will have significant loose rock when not frozen.

Getting There

From the intersection of CR250 and Florida Road (Bread), follow Florida Road east for about 12 miles. Stay left at a signed intersection and continue on CR243 for about 5 more miles to reach a gate at the north end of Lemon Reservoir. Follow signs to Transfer Park Campground, and park at Burnt Timber TH. Hike through the lower campground loop of Transfer Park Campground to the USFS service hut, and cross the meadow heading south. The buttress is right next to the river on your right.

If you want to access the top of the crag for setting topropes, turn right into the upper Transfer Park campground loop, and go to the end of the loop. Cut up and east to the top of the crag. See individual route info for access to their anchors.

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Gary N
Durango, CO
Gary N   Durango, CO
Note that if you climb here in the winter, you will have to ski/snowshoe/bootpack it in 2.6 miles. Took us around an hour. It makes for a great ski, especially with the dogs.

There's a great hangout at the base, under a big tree. Jan 5, 2017

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