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| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Sharkopus |
|
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Sport, TR | ||
| ● Uknown |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● Greenpeace |
|
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
| ● Sorry Angel |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad | ||
| ● Hangover Crack |
|
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad | ||
| ● Croconaut |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR | ||
| ● Minor Aretion |
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport | ||
| ● Left Socorro Louie |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● Middle Socorro Louie |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad | ||
| ● Socorro Louie Bags Another… |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
| ● Son of Sam |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad | ||
| ● Butcher Shop |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● Take That Stopper and Shove It |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport | ||
| ● Roadside Accident |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport | ||
| ● Swiss Cheese |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● Harley Davidson Son of a Gun |
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Midnight Squid Tickler |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | ||
| ● Whispering Huecos |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Apocaloctopus |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Handlebar Willy |
|
V1 5 Boulder |
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Albuquerque, NM
Albuquerque, NM
For the love of everything holy, please don't ever install a chain-on-bolt achnor, and here's why:
1. Typically the chain has to be small enough to fit snuggly around the bolt which usually means a smaller test load.
2. Loading the chains (not even falling, but just weighting them to clean the anchor) can loosen the nut as the chain rotates around the bolt. This was the case with the nut in the picture which I removed using my fingers!
3. The "mechanical advantage" in this case is working against you (in other words as the chain is loaded the second link from the bolt pries the first link up stressing the bolt. With a proper hanger on the bolt, the load is mostly in shear (no pullout forces).
4. Over time, as the nut gets tightened over and over again, after each time it comes loose, it becomes embedded in the washer and the top link of the chain. Eventually the only thing between you and disaster is less than a millimeter of steel (see second photo)
5. The difference in price of one of these chain anchors and a proper hanger + chain anchor is less than 6 dollars and takes no more time to install.
You don't need a $600 Bosch to fix these bad boys, so cary a few hangers and quicklinks in your climbing kit and next time you run across these atrocities swap out the washer for a hanger and potentially save a life. Feb 1, 2016
Albuquerque, NM
This one popped out relatively easily with a crow bar. Some folks have pulled these out with a yank on the quickdraw. You can imagine how a fall could pull this thing out, but it's probably not as likely as the bolt failing in tension due to rust deteriorating the "bolt's" strength. I placed a 3/8 x 3" threaded bolt next to it so you can see how small in diameter these things are.
I would recommend replacing these bolts wherever you find them. The SMC hanger isn't cause for too much concern because this one is the thicker of the two that SMC produced, but if an SMC hanger is paired with the wrong type of metal bolt a lot of corrosion can occur.
Albuquerque, NM
Access Fund accessfund.org/educate-your… Feb 1, 2016
Socorro, NM
PS thanks for doing some maintenance, most people just drive on by and rarely climb at minor wall (it is a very short wall and generally sharp but fun in the shade in the summer). Feb 5, 2016
Socorro, NM
infohost.nmt.edu/~bob/bould…
Now that I look at that, I realize that I am missing a ton of highball lines that are quite good, if somewhat easy and on suspect rock in places. Feb 5, 2016
Redacted