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Routes in Minor Wall

Apocaloctopus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Butcher Shop S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Croconaut S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Greenpeace S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Handlebar Willy V1 5
Hangover Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Harley Davidson Son of a Gun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Socorro Louie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Middle Socorro Louie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midnight Squid Tickler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minor Aretion S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Roadside Accident S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharktopus S,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Socorro Louie Bags Another Minor S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Son of Sam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sorry Angel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swiss Cheese S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Take That Stopper and Shove It S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Uknown S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whispering Huecos S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Description

All but forgotten, this quiet crag has some interesting mixed, trad, and sport climbing. The routes are short. The base of the routes is a nice spot for kids or dogs to run around. Shade varies by season and time of day. The wall faces a number of directions, mostly south and west. One can climb here all year round.

The style of climbing is fun, wacky, sequency, and engaging. Some of the routes are short enough to stick-clip the whole thing, and many can be accessed from above relatively easily if you get shutdown on lead. This is a great place to test your onsighting skills if you are a hard 5.11 climber. Lots of hidden holds and technical moves. It's obviously not world-class climbing by any means, but certainly worth a visit.

As of Dec 2016, all of the anchors have been replaced with modern hardware and in most cases steel lowering biners.

Topo of Minor Wall

Overall lay of the land

Getting There

Follow the directions to the southern box areas. The access trail starts on the east side of the dirt road just beyond a couple car-sized boulders as you are headed south. There are some faint remnants of a barbed-wire fence just before the pull out on the west side of the road. Park here.

We recommend driving over the big hill to Major Wall, turning around, and heading back north so you can park on the left side of the road in the pull out. There isn't enough room on the road itself to turn around easily.

The approach takes about 10 minutes and is a gradual slope up to the crag (which you cannot see from the dirt road). Cairns mark the way, but aim for an 8' tall solitary bolder on the horizon to the north west. Pass to the left of this boulder, wrap around the shorter walls to your right (bouldering spots) and keep heading north west.

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Replacing a lot of hardware at this crag has been an interesting experience. A number of scary discoveries have made me wonder how no major injuries (that I know of) have happened here. John and I decided to post some of our discoveries/recommendations as comments on this site for others to learn from. We also hope this sparks some discussion and action by other climbers. How many times do we come across loose bolts, missing hangers, or improper anchors and do nothing about it? Most of the problems can be fixed for a couple bucks and a few minutes of effort. Let's keep NM climbing in good shape! Feb 1, 2016


For the love of everything holy, please don't ever install a chain-on-bolt achnor, and here's why:

1. Typically the chain has to be small enough to fit snuggly around the bolt which usually means a smaller test load.
2. Loading the chains (not even falling, but just weighting them to clean the anchor) can loosen the nut as the chain rotates around the bolt. This was the case with the nut in the picture which I removed using my fingers!
3. The "mechanical advantage" in this case is working against you (in other words as the chain is loaded the second link from the bolt pries the first link up stressing the bolt. With a proper hanger on the bolt, the load is mostly in shear (no pullout forces).
4. Over time, as the nut gets tightened over and over again, after each time it comes loose, it becomes embedded in the washer and the top link of the chain. Eventually the only thing between you and disaster is less than a millimeter of steel (see second photo)
5. The difference in price of one of these chain anchors and a proper hanger + chain anchor is less than 6 dollars and takes no more time to install.



You don't need a $600 Bosch to fix these bad boys, so cary a few hangers and quicklinks in your climbing kit and next time you run across these atrocities swap out the washer for a hanger and potentially save a life. Feb 1, 2016
This star dryvin (or star drive) sheath bolt was replaced at the bottom of Swiss Cheese. I don't know why these are even called bolts because they're more like nails. You can identify them by the star imprinted on the head and the lack of anything hexagonal you could tighten with a wrench.

This one popped out relatively easily with a crow bar. Some folks have pulled these out with a yank on the quickdraw. You can imagine how a fall could pull this thing out, but it's probably not as likely as the bolt failing in tension due to rust deteriorating the "bolt's" strength. I placed a 3/8 x 3" threaded bolt next to it so you can see how small in diameter these things are.

I would recommend replacing these bolts wherever you find them. The SMC hanger isn't cause for too much concern because this one is the thicker of the two that SMC produced, but if an SMC hanger is paired with the wrong type of metal bolt a lot of corrosion can occur.

Feb 1, 2016
Here's a great link on hardware that every climber really should read...

Access Fund Feb 1, 2016
Bob Broilo
Socorro, NM
Bob Broilo   Socorro, NM
Some nice bouldering on the north and west facing walls just to the south, maybe like 50 yards or so. Some of it is a bit highball and one boulder problem has an ancient anchor at the top for practice. The area is called Handlebar Willy and the classic line is eponymous and goes at tall V1, crux at the top!

PS thanks for doing some maintenance, most people just drive on by and rarely climb at minor wall (it is a very short wall and generally sharp but fun in the shade in the summer). Feb 5, 2016
Bob Broilo
Socorro, NM
Bob Broilo   Socorro, NM
Handlebar Willy:
infohost.nmt.edu/~bob/bould…

Now that I look at that, I realize that I am missing a ton of highball lines that are quite good, if somewhat easy and on suspect rock in places. Feb 5, 2016

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