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Routes in Jimmy's Cliff

A0 est arrive S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
En francais dans le sexe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
L'arriere train sifflera 3 fois S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La chance aux chaussons S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le seigneur des onanos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mickael J denigre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moral A0 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
ici l'ombre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Elevation: 1,150 ft
GPS: 45.199, 5.722 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 798 total · 31/month
Shared By: Hyland Markle. on Dec 15, 2015
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514
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This is a good starting point for Grenoble climbing, with routes from soft 5.8 to 5.12, a great view of the city, good limestone rock, and a relatively easy approach. The cliff is South-West facing, and thus in the sun much of the day. The bottom of the cliff is shaded, could be cold for the belayer during the winter. The routes in the center do not dry very quickly, and the rock can be slick when wet.

The rock was bolted in 2005 and the bolts are in good condition and well placed. The anchors are very standard with what I've seen in France: two bolts chained together. One is about 6 or so inches below the other and to the side. There is a large quick-link attached to the bottom bolt and the chain for lowering.

The rock is generally of good quality with large, pockets, good crimps, a few cracks, some neat tufa features, and anywhere from technical slab to overhanging rock. The cliff is also just next to the Via Ferrata to the Bastille, so you will often see people climbing there.

Three climbs I really enjoy here are "A0 est arrivé" 6b, "Les doigts dans la prise" 6a, and "Le seigneur des onanos" which has a left and right variant finish, both going at 6a.

On a final note, the "Climbing Season" graph below is ridiculous and not accurate. Grenoble is one of the hottest cities in France and that is most definitely not the best time to climb (though you can bet your biscuits we'll be out crushin'!) Spring and Autumn are prime time up through until December, as Grenoble has relatively mild winters.
Falling Rocks Possible, you are responsible for your safety. Details

Getting There

Best reached by bike from the city, but a car can be taken. Park at the Restaurant La Saucisse, but don't put your car inside the gate. 45.201111, 5.720205. There is a path up the mountain from the parking lot. After several switchbacks, take your first major junction to the right (appx 200m from parking), there is a small pile of stones. Follow the trail across a steep hill, with a nice view of the city on the right. The trail will split and turn left up-hill with a short-ending trail to the right. Follow this short, steep section of trail until a cairn on the right, after which the trail ends. Turn right and follow the trail to the crag after 20m.

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Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
Sur Prises du Chef S 5.7 45'
Les Pieds Dans le Plat S 5.9 45'
Les Doigts Dans la Prise S 5.10a 45'
Le plaisir est dans la tente S 5.10a 45'
Chambre avec vue S 5.10a 45'
Et dans le vice versa S 5.10b 45'
En francais dans le sexe

Removed the first routes since they had no descriptions Dec 2, 2016

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