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Big Wall

New Hampshire > WM: Oliverian N… > Owl's Head Cliff (Oli…

Description

The Big Wall section is the massive face that dominates the right side of the cliff. This impressive face hosts large, sweeping arches, flakes, loose blocks and a ton of steep slab.

Expect 5.11 (or harder) climbing on all but a few routes. A few modern routes can be found on the face, most notably Bloodsuckers and Tachycardia. The newer routes will be obvious with modern bolts and generous (relatively) bolting. The old routes on the face are serious climbing with big runouts and old rusty hardware.

Excellent adventure climbing can be found on the face. The routes can be up to five pitches in length over varied terrain. The face receives lots of sun and is best early or late season.

Getting There

Turn right where the trail meets the cliff at the toe of The Nose. After a few minute hike you will reach The Apron. Continue for five more minutes to reach the Big Wall.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
● Van Burren Route
Trad 5 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X
 3
● White Lightning
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
● Boiler Plate Route
Trad 6 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
● Bird of Prey
Trad 6 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
● Leading cause
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 2
● Leading Cause variation right side.
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
● Tachycardia
Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
● The Milky Way
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
● Cockpit to Bombardier
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
● Warthog
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 2
● Blood Suckers
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 3
● The Rapper
Trad 3 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 3
● Spare Ribs
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
 3
● Armstrong Arches.
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
● Dartmouth Corner (a.k.a. Great C…
Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
● Big Green
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 2
● The giant dead tree corner
Trad 5 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
● Energizer
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
● Revelations
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
● E12
Trad 6 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
● R&B
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Van Burren Route
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 5 pitches
● White Lightning
 3
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X Trad
● Boiler Plate Route
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 6 pitches
● Bird of Prey
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 6 pitches
● Leading cause
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Leading Cause variation rig…
 2
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
● Tachycardia
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 4 pitches
● The Milky Way
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
● Cockpit to Bombardier
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
● Warthog
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
● Blood Suckers
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
● The Rapper
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad 3 pitches
● Spare Ribs
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad 4 pitches
● Armstrong Arches.
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R Trad 2 pitches
● Dartmouth Corner (a.k.a. Gr…
 3
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
● Big Green
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● The giant dead tree corner
 2
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
● Energizer
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
● Revelations
 2
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
● E12
 2
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
● R&B
 3
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Snapshot of the big wall area.
[Hide Photo] Snapshot of the big wall area.
The start of new 5.11+ route on Big Wall (see comment by Boris Itin)
[Hide Photo] The start of new 5.11+ route on Big Wall (see comment by Boris Itin)
Revelations 5.10a
[Hide Photo] Revelations 5.10a

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

boris itin
Lafayette CA
[Hide Comment] There is a new heavily bolted very safe route on the Big Wall. I don't know the name. It's 5.11+ starting about 100 meters left of Dartmouth corner (see photo of the start attached). The pitches are very short due to a lot traversing and some downclimbing. However, it's easy to link them with double ropes. To the right of it, there is another recently bolted route, supposedly 5.10+-5.11a. I only did the first pitch - a 5.9/10a mixture of trad and bolts. Sep 21, 2020
Morgan Patterson
NH
[Hide Comment] Are there any routes (new or old) between Leading Cause and Rapper? Jan 30, 2021
Ira OMC
Hardwick, VT
[Hide Comment] Two new-ish (2022) routes on either side of the Van Buren route. On the right is a well protected moderate sport climb with quick clip anchor, maybe 5.8 or 9. To the left is a longer , harder climb, fully bolted but spaced out bolts. Prob 11a crux low and a harder (11d?) traverse crux at the top. There is another pitch to this but it was wet and we felt pretty worked so we didn't climb it.
Both great climbs, many thanks to those that put in the work! Oct 27, 2023