Description

South-facing and sunny, you will have this fun, obscure Wingate crag to yourself. Bring a dozen draws, gear to 3", and a 60m rope. Most climbs are around 80 feet tall. There are fun, interesting bolted aretes, corners and faces, and some good-quality cracks.

There are 15 climbs listed for this crag in Charlie Fowler's & Damon Johnston's out-of-print The Wild, Wild West guidebook, 2004. Most are in the 5.9 to .10+ range, with a few 5.7/8 and 5.11/12. A high clearance vehicle is recommended but may be not needed.

Getting There

From CO Hwy. 145 heading west, turn south on CO Hwy. 141 towards Slick Road/Dry Creek Basin about 4 miles east of Naturita. Continue on CO Hwy 141 for 23 miles to Gypsum Valley Road 20R on the right. There is a BLM sign here for the Dolores River put-in.

Drive a little over 12 miles on Gypsum Valley Road 20R, staying right at the fork and to the the river. About 250m before the obvious Psycho Tower area is a steep rocky gully on the north side of the road leading up and right. Park here, and scramble up the gully to the bench above. Continue north to the obvious, black cliffs straight ahead. It is about 40 minutes from car to crag. The two main walls are separated by two house-size boulders detached from the cliff.

8 Total Climbs

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