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Elevation: 9,500 ft
GPS: 49.973, -116.591 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 107 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Nov 5, 2015
Admins: Kate Lynn
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INTRODUCTION
Even though its not the most impressive of the Leaning Towers, Shark's Head is a rock climber's summit that gets positive reports. There are two summit blocks and the higher one requires straddling a knife edge (au cheval).

BETA:
Instead the west side to north col route used by the first ascent, try the Southeast Ridge if coming from the south end of the range (Dewar Hot Springs). Patrick Morrow reported one long pitch of excellent 5.7 (CAJ 1972). Others report 5.8 (CAJ 1992)! All say it is a great crack and that the second pitch is a wild too. Traverse right to nice final move onto a sub-summit. To get back to your snow shoes, reverse the traverse, then one long rappel down to the glacier travel.

In 2015, Shark's Head got a new 5.9/blue ice route up the east face (Bury-Mauther Expedition, CAJ 2015). The real news is that they avoided down-climbing glacier ice by fixing a bunch of rappel stations with pins, nuts, and slings. From the saddle between the summit pyramids, a few rappels north toward Hall Peak end at easier ground. Last but not least for commitment, find a few more rappels to get down the lower east face.

APPROACH INFORMATION
Please go to the Leaning Towers.

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