Description

South facing low angle trad climbing

Getting There

Cracks in the Park
Spring 1997 BBn MTC MMh MC
Located in the drainage directly west of the ranger property in the East Stronghold, where the road jogs through the private properties.

Park in the Over flow Camping area (bean fest) as far south as you can. There is a small turn around. There is a small building in the field that looks like a water tank.

You basically walk south along the hillside until it is possible to turn up the canyon. Roughly 10 min. Turn up the drain, head up the left side, then back into the drain until it cliffs out.

4 Total Climbs

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brian benedon
tucson
brian benedon   tucson
The Cracks in the Park is not a park like setting as is the Dog Park, the name is relevant to the difficulty of the routes. I found the cracks at Colby's bean fest while tripping through the mountains by my self.
We did the first route the Sunday after the fest. It is located in a narrow rocky canyon. The routes are pretty clean, however any rock fall could be dangerous for people on the ground so heads up.

I handed out many topos, but that was a long time ago.

This is great easy trad climbing on excellent rock, however the difficulties are low to the ground, so please be careful, place lots of gear if you are learning trad.

Cracks in the Park

Spring 1997 BBn MTC MMh MC
Located in the drainage directly west of the ranger property in the East Stronghold, where the road jogs through the private properties.

Park in the Over flow Camping area (bean fest) as far south as you can. There is a small turn around. There is a small building in the field that looks like a water tank.

You basically walk south along the hillside until it is possible to turn up the canyon. Roughly 10 min. Turn up the drain, head up the left side, then back into the drain until it cliffs out.

Left – Right

Dogs must be leashed, TR .10

Par Course .9, 65’ Ears

Kicking the Cat .8 200’
Seams, face, joins with WD then go left up arête to boilerplates top out.
Small wires, cams

Walking the Dog, .6+ 200’

Cat in the tree .6+ 200’

The Cookie, farthest route right.

Natural belay on top. Walk down west gully to tree. Rap ½ rope. Nov 1, 2015
brian benedon
tucson
brian benedon   tucson
I had not been out there for I think 5 years before last weekend, and it looks as though no one else has either. The trail has been over grown. Pants, boots and gloves might not be a bad idea.

When you turn up the gully; cross the gully and work up the left hill-side of the gully. Nov 9, 2015
Person1  
Updated topo shows some variations climbed in 2007 and the red route climbed in 2007. The Cookie was climbed in 2007 also. Not sure when original ascent of The Cookie was done since it is not on the original 1997 hand-drawn topo that I have. Jun 17, 2017
brian benedon
tucson
brian benedon   tucson
An Anchor was added to Cat in the Tree in 2016 at about 100'. This was a great improvement that lessened the runout and provides a nice top rope of the lower section.
The Cookie was done in 98 after a bean fest. I am impressed that anyone is still hanging on to that ugly topo I drew in 97.
The approach is not bad, stay left of the gully as you head up the hill to the climbs. Oct 30, 2018