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Wankers Columns Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Wankers Columns

L › R R › L A › Z

	Birds on a Shelf TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Detached Reality T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dirty Chimney TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hanz Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Layback, The T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Log Flume T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Measure of Pleasure, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mouse in a Microwave T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Nuggets T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	RIP The Rattler TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Seven Eleven TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Sluice Box T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Thin Edge of Reality T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Thin Seam TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Tight In Corner TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Wendell's Big Mistake TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Elevation:	677 ft	206 m
GPS:	45.70752, -121.38987 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	25,594 total · 230/month
Shared By:	Micah Klesick on Oct 20, 2015 · Updates
Admins:	Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This short crag hosts a fair amount of stiff and thin finger cracks, as well as a few hand cracks. Routes run from 30'-50', and tend to be sustained in nature. There are multiple anchors at the tops for TR or lead, and still multiple very thin FA's waiting to be had. And as of 1/18, it sounds like much of the oak has been cleaned up.
There is Poison Oak at the base, but from October through April, it is dormant, and poses little risk. It could be easily cleaned up as well if a few people took it on for a day. The rock is pretty good quality, fairly smooth, and very clean.
This area is more of a winter area due to summer heat, and poison oak levels in the summer. Could be a great spot to go climb trad when Beacon is wet or closed, as this area stays dry much of the time due to its eastern location.

Getting There

The hike in is a pleasant 15-20 min hike up fairly mellow rolling hills. Park where the the Old Hwy 8 meets Hwy 14 and Rowland Lake. Walk up the old road for a couple hundred yards until you see a sign and trail on the right. Follow the trail, staying to the right at all the forks, until you come to a waterfall (it was dry when I was there). Follow the trail up and around the waterfall to the left, cross the creek on a wood plank, and then in about 200' you'll see the columns standing about 200'-300' off to the right of the trail and up on a little knoll. There are faint trails to the base on both ends of the cliff.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wankers Columns

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 43 ● Hanz Crack Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 39 ● The Measure of Pleasure Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 14 ● Detached Reality Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 21 ● Sluice Box Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 17 ● Mouse in a Microwave Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 19 ● Log Flume Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 7 ● The Layback Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 5 ● Birds on a Shelf TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 4 ● Wendell's Big Mistake TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 5 ● Thin Edge of Reality Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 7 ● Thin Seam TR