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Routes in Wankers Columns

Birds on a Shelf TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Detached Reality T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hanz Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Log Flume T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Measure of Pleasure, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mouse in a Microwave T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuggets T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
RIP The Rattler TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seven Eleven TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sluice Box T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thin Edge of Reality T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thin Seam TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wendell's Big Mistake TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Elevation: 677 ft
GPS: 45.708, -121.39 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,700 total · 125/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Oct 20, 2015 with updates from Ezra Boden
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
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Description

This short crag hosts a fair amount of stiff and thin finger cracks, as well as a few hand cracks. Routes run from 30'-50', and tend to be sustained in nature. There are multiple anchors at the tops for TR or lead, and still multiple very thin FA's waiting to be had. And as of 1/18, it sounds like much of the oak has been cleaned up.
There is Poison Oak at the base, but from October through April, it is dormant, and poses little risk. It could be easily cleaned up as well if a few people took it on for a day. The rock is pretty good quality, fairly smooth, and very clean.
This area is more of a winter area due to summer heat, and poison oak levels in the summer. Could be a great spot to go climb trad when Beacon is wet or closed, as this area stays dry much of the time due to its eastern location.

Getting There

The hike in is a pleasant 15-20 min hike up fairly mellow rolling hills. Park where the the Old Hwy 8 meets Hwy 14 and Draco Lake. Walk up the old road for a couple hundred yards until you see a sign and trail on the right. Follow the trail, staying to the right at all the forks, until you come to a waterfall (it was dry when I was there). Follow the trail up and around the waterfall to the left, cross the creek on a wood plank, and then in about 200' you will see the columns standing about 200'-300' off to the right of the trail and up on a little knoll. There are faint trails to the base on both ends of the cliff.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wankers Columns

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Hanz Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
The Measure of Pleasure
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Sluice Box
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Mouse in a Microwave
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Log Flume
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hanz Crack
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Measure of Pleasure
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Sluice Box
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Mouse in a Microwave
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Log Flume
 7
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Went out here for the first time today. Lovely little place. When we were trying to find The Measure of Pleasure (5.8) we were able to find everything except the detached column and chimney climb. It took us a second, but we discovered that the column has fallen. Quite the bummer as we were looking forward to giving it a go. Feb 24, 2016
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
That's a good reminder to always bolt anchors on small pillars with a bolt on two pillars, so if the pillar happens to be loose, you don't have both bolts on one pillar. Apr 19, 2016
das1405
Portland
das1405   Portland
we were hiking up to the columns last week and a biker asked if we were on our way to "the cave". anyone know what he meant? where it is and if it is a climbing spot? Apr 28, 2017

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