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Routes in Wankers Columns

Hanz Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Log Flume T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Measure of Pleasure, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nuggets T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sluice Box T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thin Edge of Reality T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Elevation: 677 ft
GPS: 45.708, -121.39 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,252 total, 86/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Oct 20, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
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Description

This short crag hosts a fair amount of stiff and thin finger cracks, as well as a few hand cracks. Routes run from 30'-50', and tend to be sustained in nature. There are multiple anchors at the tops for TR or lead, and still multiple very thin FA's waiting to be had.
There is Poison Oak at the base, but from October through April, it is dormant, and poses little risk. It could be easily cleaned up as well if a few people took it on for a day. The rock is pretty good quality, fairly smooth, and very clean.
This area is more of a winter area due to summer heat, and poison oak levels in the summer. Could be a great spot to go climb trad when Beacon is wet or closed, as this area stays dry much of the time due to its eastern location.

Getting There

The hike in is a pleasant 15-20 min hike up fairly mellow rolling hills. Park where the the Old Hwy 8 meets Hwy 14 and Draco Lake. Walk up the old road for a couple hundred yards until you see a sign and trail on the right. Follow the trail, staying to the right at all the forks, until you come to a waterfall (it was dry when I was there). Follow the trail up and around the waterfall to the left, cross the creek on a wood plank, and then in about 200' you will see the columns standing about 200'-300' off to the right of the trail and up on a little knoll. There are faint trails to the base on both ends of the cliff.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wankers Columns

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hanz Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Measure of Pleasure
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sluice Box
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Log Flume
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hanz Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Measure of Pleasure 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Sluice Box 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Log Flume 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Wankers Columns »

Weather Averages

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das1405
Portland
das1405   Portland
we were hiking up to the columns last week and a biker asked if we were on our way to "the cave". anyone know what he meant? where it is and if it is a climbing spot? Apr 28, 2017
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
That's a good reminder to always bolt anchors on small pillars with a bolt on two pillars, so if the pillar happens to be loose, you don't have both bolts on one pillar. Apr 19, 2016
benson87
Portland
benson87   Portland
Went out here for the first time today. Lovely little place. When we were trying to find The Measure of Pleasure (5.8) we were able to find everything except the detached column and chimney climb. It took us a second, but we discovered that the column has fallen. Quite the bummer as we were looking forward to giving it a go. Feb 24, 2016

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