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Routes in Demonology Cliff Band

Big Lie, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Demonology T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Green Meanie T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Hidden Persuasion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hidden Technology T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostile Witness T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
In the Mood T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Farts on Crack T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
One Crack Below T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quick & Dirty T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Second Wind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Side Effects T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweet Suspicion T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

Description

This is the first cliff band down and to your left (N) after you pass the Spillway Crag. There are many short cracks here between 35 and 80 feet that can be either led or TRed from numerous double bolt anchors along the broad flat top. The most obvious line in the right-facing "Demonology" dihedral. Shady in the morning, the whole crag comes into the sun in the afternoon. There is a prominent ledge bisecting the whole cliff at mid-height.

Getting There

To reach these short cracks, walk out the Mining Road a 1/2 mile from the Ellery Dam until you pass "Gold Mind" (5.9) on the Spillway Crag to your right. Either descend down the talus field to your left (N) to the very bottom of the cliff or else walk a little further and rap in from the top to a broad ledge that traverses the whole cliff at mid-height.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Demonology Cliff Band

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Demonology
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Demonology 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
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