Elevation: 1,023 ft
GPS: 37.734, -83.662 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 34,761 total · 573/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Sep 22, 2015
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

Description

The Old Zoo is probably best know for a pair of short, classic 5.12a routes right next to each other with each route climbing markedly different from the other. Hippocrite involves big moves on mostly all big good holds. Scar Tissue serves up steeper, more sustained climbing on smaller but still great holds.

This area is a large amphitheater that faces mostly north but because the wall curves, you can chase sun/shade pretty well. Many of the better routes stay dry in rain.

Getting There

From the parking area, hike west/southwest towards the river. Apparently there used to be a log crossing over this river but that no longer exists. Take your shoes off, ford the river and find the climber's trail on the other side. Scramble up a very steep, rooty section of trail just right of a side drainage/ravine and continue steeply uphill for another five minutes.
When you reach a small arch at the top of the trail pass through it (or around it to the left) and walk along the base of the wall a short bit and you're there. This area, to the left of the small arch, is the "Old Zoo".

If you go to the right when you reach the small arch, you get to The New Zoo. The New Zoo is a collection of newer routes. The New Zoo area begins with the route Sidewinder (5.12b).

If you continue along the wall beyond the The New Zoo, down the hill and down around the cave area, you get to a newer area called the Bird Cage Sector. The Bird Cage Sector begins with the route Sons of Perdition (5.12a).

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Old Zoo

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 156
Put Me In The Zoo
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 95
Chimp
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 141
One Brick Shy
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 67
Armadillo
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 31
Skin The Cat
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Edgehog
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 289
Monkey in the Middle
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 136
Geezers Go Sport
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 43
Animal Husbandry
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 47
Lynx Jinx
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 206
Hippocrite
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 100
Scar Tissue
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Put Me In The Zoo
 156
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Chimp
 95
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
One Brick Shy
 141
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Armadillo
 67
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Skin The Cat
 31
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Edgehog
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Monkey in the Middle
 289
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Geezers Go Sport
 136
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Animal Husbandry
 43
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Lynx Jinx
 47
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Hippocrite
 206
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Scar Tissue
 100
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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