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Routes in Aiguilles Dorées

Eole Danza per Noi T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Elevation: 11,500 ft
GPS: 45.983, 7.033 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 766 total · 20/month
Shared By: ARK on Sep 6, 2015
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.
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Description

Superb Chamonix style red granite without the crowds! As the Aiguilles Dorées are in the far eastern part of the Mont Blanc Massif, and a full day's hike from Chamonix, they are much less travelled than the more famous peaks in France. But for those looking to climb moderate alpine routes (6a-6c) there are many excellent options. The rock is solid, high-quality and classic, the views are unbeatable, and the alpine huts make the approaches casual.

The main peaks of the Aiguilles Dorées are (from E to W) the Tête Crettez, Aig. de la Javelle, Le Trident, Aig. Sans Nom, Tête Biselx, Aig. Penchées, and the Aig. de la Varappe. Many of the modern rock routes are on the Aig. de la Varappe including Eole Danza per Noi (6a), C'est Mozart qu'on Assassine (6a+), and Et Je Suis Le Vent (6b+). One can also traverse the peaks in either direction. For topos see Plaisir West.

Getting There

For climbing in the Aiguilles Dorées there are two main places to stay:
1) Cabane du Trient is a nice alpine hut run by the Swiss Alpine Club. Costs under $30 per night if you have an AAC membership and don't get dinner. cas-diablerets.ch/trient.htm
2) Bivouac de l'Envers des Dorées is a hut with two sections. One has 11 beds and is open year round. The other has more spaces as well as a kitchen area and some stocked food, but you will need to arrange to pick up the key from the local section of the Alpine Club: cas-dent-de-lys.ch/wordpres… .

Getting to the Cabins:
1) For Trient the best approach is from the town Champex in Valais. The ski lift to La Breya will significantly shorten the approach (3-4h with lift, 5-6h without). From the top of the lift follow the hiking trail to the Cabane d'Orny and continue for another hour to the Cabane du Trient. All these trails are exctremely well marked. The Cabane du Trient can also be reached from Chamonix along the Haute Route.

2) Biv. de l'Envers des Dorées is reached in 5-6h from the town of Praz-de-Fort by taking the trail to the Cabane de Saleina, then crossing the Glacier de Saleina to the hut.

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