Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

EM: Amidon

Missouri

Description

Getting There

From St. Louis, take Highway 55 south to Highway 67 south (exit 174B toward Bonne Terre/Farmington). Highway 67 will take you though Farmington and then to Fredericktown. At Fredericktown, take the exit for Highway 72. Go east on 72 for approximately 4 miles. Veer left on Highway J and stay on Highway J for 4.5 miles. Turn right on Highway W. After 1 mile turn left on Madison 208. After 1 mile veer left on Madison 253 (a large sign for the Conservation Area sits at the fork in the road). In less than 1 mile the parking lot will be on your right.

Guidebook

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The beautiful Castor River
[Hide Photo] The beautiful Castor River

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jacob Luciani
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] This place has potential for some pretty crazy cool stuff downriver, not to mention heapings of tall crack boulders. And that's just in River Left! Definitely worth checking out, and hopefully it'll get some more traffic in the future. Be prepared to get your feet wet, though; the river level changes, but when I went it was high enough that there was no safe and dry path. Judicious use of sandbars helps, though.
UPDATE: at lower water levels there is a dry path across the river. Downstream from where the Creek boulder sits, a little upstream from the River Right boulders there's a winding line of rocks that can be traversed to get through. Note that the rocks are quite smooth, and though there are some limited spots where the rock being wet isn't a death sentence for this path there are many where a wet landing zone could spell disaster. There's about a three or four foot jump near the end. If you're carrying gear, it helps a lot to have someone go across without and pass the gear across the jump. Please be careful if you choose to go this route. A fall here would likely have worse consequences than getting wet. Jan 18, 2019
Jacob Luciani
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] I've compiled a list of most of the projects I've found with descriptions, locations, and a few pictures, in case anyone else wants to get out there and grab some first ascents: docs.google.com/spreadsheet… Mar 27, 2019
[Hide Comment] are there any established ethics here as far as cleaning new problems goes? are wire brushes considered acceptable for cleaning lichen off spots? hoping to check it out sometime soon and wanting to make sure I follow whatever standards exist. Nov 25, 2020
Zach Taylor
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Ben, I don’t think there are any area-specific ethics but bear in mind that this is a conservation area and we want to minimize our impact as much as possible. I’ve always had success cleaning without a wire brush here.

Let me echo what others have said: this place has truly endless potential, particularly River Left. If not for the issue of river crossing, I think this place would be infinitely more frequented than other local crags like ERocks. Nov 26, 2020
Zach Taylor
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] I've recently gone on a rampage of adding previously done problems and new ones in the Secret Valley. If you have any historical knowledge (e.g. first ascentionist, route names, etc.) that contradicts what I've listed, please feel free to add it. Jan 17, 2021
Nick Richards
Stl, mo
[Hide Comment] Thanks for doing this Zach. Come back to the Midwest sometime!!

There are many brushes out there and lots to clean off. My advice, is to clean off hands only for holds that need it. Make sure to clean 4 inches above the hold to reduce moisture. A V0 jug probably doesn't need clesning where a V7 sloper may need additional attention. Please use synthetic or horse hair brushes only. Steel brushes should never be used. Brass can be used only in rare occasions and only brush softly. Do not dig into the rock especially sane stone. Think of lifting the moss up rather than scrubbing it. Hope this helps Oct 14, 2024