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Routes in Intelligence Test Slabs

Uncle Tom's Storybook Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 200 ft
GPS: 35.716, -114.926 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 227 total, 8/month
Shared By: DesertDan on Aug 27, 2015
Admins: Justin Johnsen
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Description

These are all of the cliffs and slabs from the stairs by the chock stone left to the the next drainage where the Keyhole Narrows Trail starts. The majority of the petroglyphs at Keyhole are on the right half of this large, broken brown slab closest to the wash. There are a bunch of easier off-limits routes here that were established before BLM implemented the no climbing within 100' of a petroglyph rule. A couple are really good but most are meh and since we can't climb 'em, that's all that need be said on them.

The Indian Cave is a super cool place in the pile of boulders underneath the petroglyphs. A large rock in the cave has many paint pots and there are pictographs on the ceiling. Outside the front entrance of the cave, where the North Front Slabs come closest to the fence, are a couple matates in the bed rock at the base.

A little farther left, the Intelligence Test Slabs pull away from the fence again as the the cliff corners. Here the brown slab ends and becomes a small north-facing cliff that angles uphill with irregular corners and overhangs. At the back of this step in the cliff where it meets much easier more broken up slabs that continue left to the next drainage, a large broken dihedral is formed. A circuitous 5.1-2 path through the white slabs down low leads to the upper part of the easier large low-angle dihedral and the ledges above it. This is the main access/descent for the top of the Intelligence Test Slabs and divides the left and right sides. All of this is outside the petroglyph zone and has several easy climbs in the 5.5 range.

Down low on the left end of the Intelligence Test Slabs is much opportunity for bouldering on the initial steep and sometimes overhanging start of the slabs above. It can be a bit bushy here. Bellow this, there are some problems on the handful of large enough boulders closer to the fence.
This area has many petroglyphs and much of it is off-limits to climbing. Details

Getting There

Walk past the fence, stay left of the chock stone.

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