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Areas in WM: Zealand Valley

Mount Oscar 16 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Sugarloaf 27 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
Zealand Notch Itself: Whitewall Mountain 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Elevation: 1,711 ft
GPS: 44.247, -71.501 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 24, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Description

[Formally titled "Zealand Notch/Road"]

As Bradley White explains in his Zealand Notch posting: "Zealand Notch used to be called New Zealand Notch because of it's similarity to the great forest of New Zealand.

From 1884 to 1905 a logging baron named J.E. Henry put an end to the existence of this forest.
"...fortunately, in the past 110 years the forest has returned and is now under more sensible management as part of the White Mtn National Forest.

OVERVIEW:


Mt Oscar provides trad climbing with bolt protection when needed on fairly clean rock. Shady base and an easy approach make for a nice summer day.

Sugarloaf, and especially Middle Sugarloaf also provides some high-quality routes. Those that date to the mid-1980's and before are described in Ed Webster's 2nd Edition (out of print, but try Amazon) "Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of NH". Many new lines have been put in...mostly trad with the occasional bolt. For now, let's just leave it as an adventure place not too far from the road. There are also shorter climbs on North Sugarloaf. (take a Right at the "T")

Oscar and Sugarloaf are covered in the new guidebook "The Notches".

Whitewall Mountain is a truly near-alpine "adventure" cliff. Located on the East side of Zealand Notch itself. It is in an Eastern Wilderness designated area so no bolts, in fact no permanent anchors or even protection. While I haven't checked, it would surprise me significantly if there is cell phone coverage there, so act accordingly.

Getting There

From the North Conway area take Rt 302 through Crawford Notch, pass the Bretton Woods ski area, and in about 4-5 miles take a left into the WMNF Zealand campground area on the Zealand Road. Go up about a mile to a gravel parking lot for Mt Oscar and Syugarloaf. For Zealand Notch/Whitewall Mtn go to the parking at the end of the road.

From the North Woodsgtock/Lincoln/Cannon area, take Rt 93 and then bear right onto Rt3 towards the town of Twin Mountain. Take a right at the stop light onto Rt 302 South (East?) and in about 2-3 miles turn right onto the Zealand Road.

NOTE: The GPS LOCATION for this "Area" is about mid-way up the Zealand Notch Road, about 1/2 way fromn Rt 302 to the parking at the end of the road.

52 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at WM: Zealand Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescent aka Oscar Mayer
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Steve's Twilight
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla"
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Oscar the Grouch
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Lif…
Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Perez Highway
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caveat Emptor
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Candy
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moose Spirit
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Randys Super Fine Triplishes
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oscar's Last Stand
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Direct F…
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coffee Achievers
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Three Bubbas Trilogy
Sport
Crescent aka Oscar Mayer Mount Oscar 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Sea of Green Sugarloaf > Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Steve's Twilight Sugarloaf > Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla" Mount Oscar 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Oscar the Grouch Mount Oscar 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky… Sugarloaf > Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
The Perez Highway Mount Oscar 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Caveat Emptor Mount Oscar 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Rock Candy Sugarloaf > Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Moose Spirit Mount Oscar 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Randys Super Fine Triplishes Mount Oscar 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Oscar's Last Stand Mount Oscar 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor'… Mount Oscar 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Coffee Achievers Mount Oscar 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Three Bubbas Trilogy Mount Oscar 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in WM: Zealand Valley »

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