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Areas in WM: Kancamagus (Central)

Bartlett- Haystack 6 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Bondcliff 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Captain, The 11 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Greens Cliff 50 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 52
Mount Huntington 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Owl's Cliff 24 / 20 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 46
Table Mountain 21 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Elevation: 1,945 ft
GPS: 44.049, -71.378 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: M Sprague on Aug 24, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Description

The Central Kancamagus Area is the largest geographical White Mountains region created here, which makes sense with much of the climbing traditionally thought of as relatively back country. It runs from Table Mtn. and Bartlett-Haystack around Bear Notch Rd in the east, through the beautiful Sawyer Pond basin north of the Kanc. then west past The Captain to include Bondcliff in the Pemigewasset Wilderness.

In reality some are barely back country with BH, Table, Mount Huntington and the NE crags of Greens approachable in an hour or less of hiking, which just gets you warmed up. The rest of Greens (1-1.5+ hrs) depending on crag and the Owls cliffs 1.5+ take a bit more work. The Captain (2-3 hrs) and Bondcliff (9+miles) retain the outback feel.

Each of the areas has its individual flavor, but share in that they are all granite. Greens and Owls around Sawyer Pond are probably the most “civilized”, with mostly bolted anchors and relatively well cleaned routes of all types. The Captain, with its beautiful steep slabs, has traditionally been developed as a ground up area. Bondcliff is more of a semi alpine area of questionable rock and little to no fixed gear, offering adventure and open views. It has been climbed all over, but purposely left by those who know it mostly unrecorded to retain the wilderness character.

Getting There

Access to the Central Kanc crags is from all points of the compass, sometimes changing with the season, so see the individual areas for detailed approach descriptions.

Owls Cliff, Bartlett Haystack and Table Mountain are approached from Bear Notch Rd, which connects the Kancamagus Hwy to the town of Bartlett. Be aware that the middle of BNR is seasonally closed, sometimes late into the spring.

Greens and The Captain are best approached from the north off Rt 302 via Sawyer River Rd (seasonal closures). If the river is low and you have a bike, it is probably faster to get to The Meadows Slabs of Greens directly off the Kanc.

Bondcliff has a 9+ mile approach (one of the more backwoods cliffs of The Whites!) and can be reached via the western end of the Kanc or Zealand Rd to the north.
Forest road closure status (not always accurate)

145 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at WM: Kancamagus (Central)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The Jolly Green Giant
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Southern Migration
Trad 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stewart's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The Beanstalk Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
First Impressions
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blurry Eyes
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Camper
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
I'm Still Here
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Yeti Beats
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Puttin' In Time
Trad 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Green Party
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Steady Yeti
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Greenpeace
Trad 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
The Muffin Man
Trad 2 pitches
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
The Dirty Handshake
Sport
The Jolly Green Giant Greens Cliff > Northeastern Crags 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Southern Migration Mount Huntington 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 5 pitches
Stewart's Crack Greens Cliff > Main Wall 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Beanstalk Crack Greens Cliff > Northeastern Crags 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
First Impressions Greens Cliff > Main Wall 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Blurry Eyes Greens Cliff > Main Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Happy Camper Greens Cliff > Northeastern Crags 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
I'm Still Here Greens Cliff > Main Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Yeti Beats Greens Cliff > Northeastern Crags 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Puttin' In Time Captain 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Green Party Greens Cliff > Main Wall 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Steady Yeti Greens Cliff > Northeastern Crags 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Greenpeace Greens Cliff > Main Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
The Muffin Man Greens Cliff > Main Wall 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches
The Dirty Handshake Owl's Cliff > Right Cliff > 5.10 Wall 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
You look right across at it from the NE crags of Greens. They look like potentially nice slabs, but I haven't ever hiked over to them since there is so much to do at Greens that is more than just slabs. They are also very close to the pond so I think power drilling may be an issue and potentially obnoxious (though I am not sure an hour of hammering per bolt is really less disruptive than a quick 30 sec blast with my drill)

There are lots of nice slabs in NH. What we need is more steep. It sounds like a lot of the new potential is in ME, it is just a little far for me to drive regularly. 5 pitch steep schist, so I heard, but those N Conway and ME boys like to keep things quiet. Aug 18, 2017
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
North and slight East of Sawyer Pond, on the edge of the Sawyer Pond Scenic Area is a ridge that looks like it has a steep, south facing rock exposure. I'm not aware of any marked trails out there. Know if there's anything to it, Mark? Aug 18, 2017

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