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Routes in Black Ridge, Kangerlussuaq

Mosquito Gulley T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Raven T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Elevation: 309 ft
GPS: 67.006, -50.674 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,374 total · 36/month
Shared By: MalcolmS on Aug 20, 2015
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Description

Northwest-facing, slabby, granite ridge with varied crack systems, 1200-1500 m long, up to approximately 250m high in places. Weather can change rapidly, so monitor the forecast and climb prepared. Mosquitos are intolerable (to the point constituting a serious safety hazard) during much of the summer, but usually die out early August.

Cliff may be loosely divided into several areas with abundant possibilities for first ascents. Center cliff is where the face descends all the way to the dirt road, and appears to have borne the most traffic. Left of center offers many potential lines. A low-angle, chossy segment separates left-of-center from far-left cliff, where additional trad lines may be found. Northeast of far-left cliff is an overhanging "alcove" area with some abandoned 1/4" bolts and dirty rock with steep moves that would require significant cleaning. Moving right of center cliff, the base of the cliff rises away from the road on loose, sandy ground, to multiple other possibilities. Beyond this is another chossy segment before coming to the West Buttress, the tallest segment with further unexplored possibilities. Beyond another section of choss, The far west end has a small, amphitheater-like enclosure behind a pair of old satellite dishes, though the area is compromised by extensive raven guano here.

Bouldering opportunities also exist across the base of the cliff. A gravel road atop the ridge offers a convenient path down from all routes, follow it down around the eastern edge of the ridge back to the base.

Getting There

Arrive in Kangerlussuaq by Air Greenland, cruise ship, USAF LC-130, or other method. Access from town is very easy, but be respectful of the delicate arctic tundra. There is high potential for damaging erosion along many parts of the cliff base. From the center of town, it is approximately a 30-minute walk. Route is obvious. Take the road over the Watson River Bridge, and bear left at the fork toward the main wall.

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