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Routes in Ellery Dam Spillway Crag

Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dominant Partner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ellery ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gold Mind T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guilt of the Fisherman T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roof-to-Dihedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spillway ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Triple Ripple T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Description [Suggest Change]

Spillway Crag is a 60-foot high jumble of rock about a 10-minute 1/4 mile walk east of (and level with) the Ellery Dam. The prominent "Gold Mind" crack (5.9) is in the center of the formation with the 4-bolt "Ellery Arete" (5.11a) sport route located immediately to the right. The "Spillway Arete" (5.10d) no longer exists at the far west end of the crag. The 4 protection bolts and the double-bolt anchor on top were all destroyed when the entire front face of the arete collapsed probably due to snow during the winter. What remains is a lower-angle slab arete that has yet to be retrobolted.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Park at the dirt pull out on US 120 a little north of the Ellery Dam. Walk across the the Rhinedollar Dam and then out a dirt road leading east for about a quarter mile. The Spillway Crag is the first cliff you will come to above the road to your right.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ellery Dam Spillway Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Gold Mind
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gold Mind
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
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