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Elevation: 9,500 ft 2,896 m
GPS: 37.93656, -119.22827
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 11,365 total · 101/month
Shared By: Bruce Morris on Aug 13, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Spillway Crag is a 60-foot high jumble of rock about a 10-minute 1/4 mile walk east of (and level with) the Ellery Dam. The prominent "Gold Mind" crack (5.9) is in the center of the formation with the 4-bolt "Ellery Arete" (5.11a) sport route located immediately to the right. The "Spillway Arete" (5.10d) no longer exists at the far west end of the crag. The 4 protection bolts and the double-bolt anchor on top were all destroyed when the entire front face of the arete collapsed probably due to snow during the winter. What remains is a lower-angle slab arete that has yet to be retrobolted.

Getting There Suggest change

Park at the dirt pull out on US 120 a little north of the Ellery Dam. Walk across the the Rhinedollar Dam and then out a dirt road leading east for about a quarter mile. The Spillway Crag is the first cliff you will come to above the road to your right.

12 Total Climbs

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Location: Ellery Dam Spillway Crag Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Ellery Dam Spillway Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Roof-to-Dihedral
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
Gold Mind
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
Crack
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 4
Unknown Dihedral
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Triple Ripple
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
Ellery Arête
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Roof-to-Dihedral
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Gold Mind
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Crack
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Unknown Dihedral
 4
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Triple Ripple
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Ellery Arête
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ellery Dam Spillway Crag »

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