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Routes in Ellery Dam Spillway Crag

Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dominant Partner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ellery ArĂȘte S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gold Mind T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Guilt of the Fisherman T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roof-to-Dihedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Triple Ripple T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Description

Spillway Crag is a 60-foot high jumble of rock about a 10-minute 1/4 mile walk east of (and level with) the Ellery Dam. The prominent "Gold Mind" crack (5.9) is in the center of the formation with the 4-bolt "Ellery Arete" (5.11a) sport route located immediately to the right. The "Spillway Arete" (5.10d) no longer exists at the far west end of the crag. The 4 protection bolts and the double-bolt anchor on top were all destroyed when the entire front face of the arete collapsed probably due to snow during the winter. What remains is a lower-angle slab arete that has yet to be retrobolted.

Getting There

Park at the dirt pull out on US 120 a little north of the Ellery Dam. Walk across the the Rhinedollar Dam and then out a dirt road leading east for about a quarter mile. The Spillway Crag is the first cliff you will come to above the road to your right.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ellery Dam Spillway Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 13
Gold Mind
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Triple Ripple
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gold Mind
 13
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Triple Ripple
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
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