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Routes in Titlis North Face

Süpervitamin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Elevation: 10,587 ft
GPS: 46.772, 8.437 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 466 total, 16/month
Shared By: Monty on Aug 6, 2015
Admins: Dan Flynn
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Description

The Titlis North Face has become one of the premier shady alpine walls in Switzerland. The climbing here is wild as the upper headwall is severely overhanging. Some routes overhang by 50 meters! Luckily, the headwall offers abundant jugs, making for incredibly fun movement and great exposure. The routes range from seven to twelve pitches, and care is needed for the rappel descents, as you could easily be left hanging in space.

Important: Due to the loose rocks on ledges, it is advised not to follow other parties on routes.

For updated topos, visit the website: titlisnordwand.blogspot.com

This is one of the few alpine walls that is easily accessed without a vehicle (a little extra walking).

Climbing and Gear: Most of the routes require 12 draws/slings, and occasionally a light rack. Two 50m ropes are required to descend. Consider hauling a pack due to the steepness and difficulty of the wall.

Groceries/Climbing Shop: There is a Coop grocery store in downtown Engelberg providing a good selection of food and drinks. There is also a delicious bakery called Stöckli on the south side of town.

Camping: The Eienwäldli campground is a bit pricy (35 CHF/night for 2 people and a small car), but it is very nice and appears to be the only option in town. There is a Wifi, laundry facilities, a small store, and restaurant, as well as a pool and hot tub for 8 CHF/person. Showers are also available for 1 CHF for four minutes. Note: The campground gate locks closed from 11:30pm-7:30am, so park outside the gate if you plan to get an early start.
eienwaeldli.ch/en/camping

Getting There

From Engelberg, continue southeast following signs to the camping at Eienwäldli. Continue past Eienwäldli to the free parking along the road next to the Fürenalp. Walk past the Fürenalp cable car and cross the creek via a bridge toward Seilpark. Turn right at the first junction, walking a path through the woods toward the golf course. Continue on the large trail underneath the nice sport crag (Schlänggen) on the left and the golf course on the right. When you get to a junction with signs, go left up the steep hill toward Hohfad. Water is available at Hohfad.

From Hohfad, continue along a trail until you get to a bridge. Instead of crossing the bridge, walk upstream and follow steep grassy knolls (no trail) to a fence. Step over the fence and follow a faint climbers’ trail with many cairns up a few more steep grassy knolls. Eventually, the trail leads you into a scree field at the base of the wall. Most routes start from a large ledge system that you can access from the far right side of the wall via fixed lines. Expect 2-2.5 hours for the approach.

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