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Pfaffenhut

International > Europe > Switzerland > Wendenstöcke

Description

Pfaffenhut is one of the more easily accessible walls at Wenden, with a slightly less technical approach. Still, it’s a good 2 hour slog. The rock is primo, and the routes average around 12 pitches stopping at a large ledge system above the ringband. It is possible to continue to the tippy-top in a massive 23 pitches!

Getting There

From the parking cross the small the creek on the left and aim for a grassy knoll just left of a cascading waterfall. From here a distinct trail will wind you up the steep hillside. Shortly after scrambling up 200 feet of granite there will be an obvious junction in the trail. Take the obvious left fork that contours past a steep gully eventually deadending at a snowfield. Either slap on the crampons and walk across, or do as we did, and descend down 300 feet to where the snow is much less steep and wide. Use your best judgment, as accidents have occurred here in the past.

After the snowfield, head straight uphill (no trail), staying close to the snowfield. Eventually you’ll be forced left and a trail will emerge again. Pass through a notch, and slog your way up the steep hill for what feels like forever and you’re there!

Routes from Left to Right

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 1
El Condor
Sport, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Patent Ochsner
Sport, Alpine 13 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 1
Sternschnuppe
Trad, Alpine 14 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
El Condor
 1
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, Alpine 12 pitches
Patent Ochsner
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, Alpine 13 pitches
Sternschnuppe
 1
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 14 pitches

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Pfaffenhut
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