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Warbonnet Peak

Idaho > Central Idaho > Sawtooth Range

Description

A beautiful, remote Sawtooth peak with a memorable exposed summit pitch. Described on Summitpost as the "grand teton of Idaho". Infrequently climbed compared to many of the classic Sawtooth peaks. Loose rock is present but rock quality seemed very good. Routes include 5.7 SE face, 5.9 E face, 5.7 W face (used by the FA party of Paul Petzoldt et al in 1947), SW Rib (Dowdle) and the much harder 11+ black crystal route as well as a few others.

Getting There

Take the redfish lake boat shuttle ($22 round trip per person) to the far end of Redfish lake (or hike the approx. 5 mi.) Follow the easy and well maintained trail for 5.5 mi to alpine lake. Continue up the trail towards the Baron lakes, until the 3rd switchback. From here, travel west, cross country through forested area, then boulder fields, to the pass just north of Pt. 9769. Aim for the small sandy pass slightly above the lowest point of the saddle. Find the climbers trail here. Continue on this trail as it sidehills the north side of Pt. 9769 before dropping down a steep, loose slope towards Warbonnet lakes. Follow intermittent trails to a base camp at feather or bead lakes. Total approach is approx. 8mi/3000 vertical.

From camp, head northwest past Bead lakes and boulder hop your way approx. 1000 vertical to the 9800' saddle just east of the obvious Warbonnet Peak. The SE face route starts from this saddle.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 34
● SE Face
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● SE Face
 34
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Catie peeking over the VERY exposed summit pinnacle. Good stuff.
[Hide Photo] Catie peeking over the VERY exposed summit pinnacle. Good stuff.
Summiting Warbonnet in 1979
[Hide Photo] Summiting Warbonnet in 1979
Pt. 9769 on the trail-less portion of the approach above alpine lake. gain the climbers trail at the sandy pass marked in red
[Hide Photo] Pt. 9769 on the trail-less portion of the approach above alpine lake. gain the climbers trail at the sandy pass marked in red
alpenglow on the SE face, as seen from camp at feather lakes
[Hide Photo] alpenglow on the SE face, as seen from camp at feather lakes
Southern slope of scree which is just north of Warbonnet lake. It is a difficult descent with weight.
[Hide Photo] Southern slope of scree which is just north of Warbonnet lake. It is a difficult descent with weight.
Approach from Alpine Lake, sidehill north of Pt. 9769 and continue into warbonnet lakes drainage. Stay high on the northeast side of the valley to reach Bead Lakes
[Hide Photo] Approach from Alpine Lake, sidehill north of Pt. 9769 and continue into warbonnet lakes drainage. Stay high on the northeast side of the valley to reach Bead Lakes
Me in my Chouinard Umbro Rugby Shirt, Woolrich knickers, wool knicker socks, Bell Toptec helmet, on the Beckey route on Warbonnet - Aug 1979
[Hide Photo] Me in my Chouinard Umbro Rugby Shirt, Woolrich knickers, wool knicker socks, Bell Toptec helmet, on the Beckey route on Warbonnet - Aug 1979
Showing the shift of the chockstone due to the 2020 quake(s). One can no longer step to the right side and climb 5.4.
[Hide Photo] Showing the shift of the chockstone due to the 2020 quake(s). One can no longer step to the right side and climb 5.4.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Wilderness Climber
[Hide Comment] If you add new webbing to a route, please be sure to remove old, weathered webbing. Let's keep this wilderness climb pristine.

If you camp in the area remember campfires are NOT allowed. Campfires in the Goat Creek Drainage are illegal!
Be sure to pack out what you pack in.
It is a privilege to recreate in the wilderness. Aug 14, 2015
splitclimber
[Hide Comment] FYI - Warbonnet Peak is mis-labeled on Google. They plot it south of Braxon Lake. Finally looked at the topo approach beta pic on here which straightened me out. Jul 11, 2017
Vincent Gallegos
Davis, CA
[Hide Comment] I didn't climb this peak, but I certainly had a hell of a day out trying to find it. Highly not recommended to do it in a day from redfish lake. This >20 mile day was one of the toughest days out I've had and we never even saw it! Nov 15, 2018
Floyd Hayes
[Hide Comment] During the approach, keep an eye out for Alpine Lake, visible through the trees on the left (it's easy to pass if you're not paying attention). After departing the trail at the third switchback above Alpine Lake you will eventually break out of the forest into an open area. Head toward a dense clump of evergreens in the main gully, which can be bypassed by climbing a rock “stairway." On the small plateau above, head toward a gully to the right of a wide band of short cliffs under two huge trees (on our way up we went left but it’s more difficult, so don't go that way) and continue upward well right of the main gully toward the pass, eventually reaching a distinct climber’s trail that takes you up and over the two passes. Be sure to scramble to the summit of the unnamed peak at 9,778'. The trail continues down the steep scree slope to a small plateau on a ridge above Warbonnet Lake. After that the trail is less distinct; you can either head down the ridge toward the outlet of Warbonnet Lakes or diagonal across the slopes westward toward Feather Lakes. Jul 21, 2021