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Routes in Warbonnet Peak

SE Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 10,210 ft
GPS: 44.08, -115.054 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,413 total · 311/month
Shared By: Andrew Mayer on Jul 20, 2015
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

Description

A beautiful, remote Sawtooth peak with a memorable exposed summit pitch. Described on Summitpost as the "grand teton of Idaho". Infrequently climbed compared to many of the classic Sawtooth peaks. Loose rock is present but rock quality seemed very good. Routes include 5.7 SE face, 5.9 E face, 5.7 W face (used by the FA party of Paul Petzoldt et al in 1947), SW Rib (Dowdle) and the much harder 11+ black crystal route as well as a few others.

Getting There

Take the redfish lake boat shuttle ($16 round trip per person) to the far end of Redfish lake (or hike the approx. 5 mi.) Follow the easy and well maintained trail for 5.5 mi to alpine lake. Continue up the trail towards the Baron lakes, until the 3rd switchback. From here, travel west, cross country through forested area, then boulder fields, to the pass just north of Pt. 9769. Aim for the small sandy pass slightly above the lowest point of the saddle. Find the climbers trail here. Continue on this trail as it sidehills the north side of Pt. 9769 before dropping down a steep, loose slope towards warbonnet lakes. Follow intermittent trails to a base camp at feather or bead lakes. Total approach is approx. 8mi/3000 vertical.

From camp, head northwest past bead lakes and boulder hop your way approx. 1000 vertical to the 9800' saddle just east of the obvious warbonnet peak. the SE face route starts from this saddle.

1 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Warbonnet Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
SE Face
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
SE Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
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Photos

FYI - Warbonnet Peak is mis-labeled on Google. They plot it south of Braxon Lake. Finally looked at the topo approach beta pic on here which straightened me out. Jul 11, 2017
If you add new webbing to a route, please be sure to remove old, weathered webbing. Let's keep this wilderness climb pristine.

If you camp in the area remember campfires are NOT allowed. Campfires in the Goat Creek Drainage are illegal!
Be sure to pack out what you pack in.
It is a privilege to recreate in the wilderness. Aug 14, 2015

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