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Routes in Wild Ridge

El Diablo de Oro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 11,500 ft
GPS: 39.13, -106.674 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,568 total, 53/month
Shared By: Amos Whiting on Jul 5, 2015
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This is the longest piece of rock on the west side of The Pass. It is a ridge line above Wild Rock, which faces mostly East and South. It is high, and there is normally a light wind and great temps. This is a new area as of June 2015 and has not seen much action. There is plenty of rock and opportunities for new routes, mostly longer moderates, although the East face of "Wild Tower" may have some steeper lines.

The rock is the same as the rest of The Pass. It is mostly face climbing with some cracks. The lower angled sections have some lichen, and there is some loose rock here and there and on the decent gully. Otherwise, it is solid.

Getting There

Park as for "Wild Rock" in the large pullout on the south side of CO Hwy 82, 10.8 miles east of City Market in Aspen. Cross the street and head North/uphill, and make your way through some boggy patches until you see Wild Rock. Continue to the North face of Wild Rock. Then hike about 200 feet uphill, and look for some carins and a large, downed tree. Follow the carins on a rising traverse west toward the cliff, passing under a large boulder then straight up a large talus field until you hit the base of the wall. This takes about 30 minutes.

1 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wild Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
El Diablo de Oro
Trad 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
El Diablo de Oro 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 8 pitches
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Photos

We were up there on Saturday. Really enjoyable full day of climbing. I'm super-glad I was on belay, though, for the exposed 4th class / 5.2 section on pitch 7. A flake about the size of an extra-large pizza box came off with me on it. That section's probably a little harder now but still really easy, 5.4 tops.

Just some light cuts and bruises, but heads up for loose pieces, even large ones up there. Without a rope, I'd have probably gone about 200' down. Jun 28, 2017
This 'climb' is more of a 5th class scramble. At best the 'climb' is a 5.4 with each pitch being less than 45 ft. We spent 3 hours hiking an overbolted boulder and were looking for trad all day. Definitely not a 'must'. Jul 9, 2016
Fun route. The tower at the top is especially nice. A definite "must" for anyone looking for a moderate, multi-pitch climb on the west side of The Pass. Sep 18, 2015
@ amos: Al and I explored that area in 2013, we ended up scrambling 4th class to a large OW corner - I led the corner to the top of the wall, then rigged an anchor, and TR'd the obvious crack line (5.9?) to the right of the aforementioned wall. No pics, sorry, bud. From memory, there was a really good looking, mixed crack line on the upper features above this area. Aug 21, 2015
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
Wish I could remember what we climbed and where the climbs were located along that band! We didn't bother to add any bolts or anchors; we decided not to put in the effort since it's such a steep and long approach just to get up there (I know, lazy lazy!) Jul 8, 2015
Amos Whiting
Basalt, Colorado
Amos Whiting   Basalt, Colorado
Al, you guys should add your routes to the area. So it is clear if people are venturing into the zone looking for FAs they are not repeating.
That grey rock looks like the best chunk up there. Jul 6, 2015
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
It's cool that people are starting to venture up there! 3 or 4 years ago a friend and I went up and cleaned/climbed a few lines on the left side of your photo; above that smooth band of rock, including a nice hand crack in a corner. We decided that it would take someone with way more motivation than us to keep humping up there to establish lines, so we let it be. Nice job, Amos! Jul 6, 2015

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