Elevation: 2 ft
GPS: 47.501, -53.026 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 393 total · 9/month
Shared By: Phil Stennett on Jun 23, 2015 with updates from Greg Locke
Admins: Phil Stennett
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Description

A big lone boulder on the beach in Kelligrews. This is a very big boulder in the middle of the town and could potentially have many problems of different difficulty on it. It is unfortunately covered with quite a bit of graffiti but it doesn't affect the climbing too much.

The first people known to have climbed it were Phil Smith and Sean McDowall but we have nothing recorded on what they put up so if you climb anything feel free to name it, grade it and put it up. If we figure out the original names we can always update it later!

Getting There

From the CBS Bypass (Route 2) take the exit at Legion Road and turn left, towards the coast. Turn right onto Conception Bay Highway (Route 60) and shortly after take a left onto Long Shore Road and park somewhere. At the end of the street turn right along the beach on a trail and the boulder should be visible. UPDATE: Pond Road is now the easier access with plenty of parking.

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Greg Locke
St Johns, Newfoundland
Greg Locke   St Johns, Newfoundland
CBS Boulder in Kelligrews, Conception Bay South. Newfoundland.

This is a massive bloc sitting all by itself on the beach in Kelligrews, Conception Bay South. Its very easy to find. Take the Conception Bay Highway (Route 2) to pond Road in Kelligrews. Go to the end of Pond Road, park and walk 200 metres south on the walking trail. You, literally, can’t miss it.

The CBS Boulder is first referred to in the 2005 Newfoundland Bouldering guide book by Phil Smith and Sean McDowell. Also known as the Beach Boulder and Kelligrews locally and in other guides.
Lots of great climbs and scrambles from V0 slabs to V7 overhang and an epic rambling V3 20 foot highball. …a classic and beautiful climb. This problem, Party Bus, itself is well worth the visit but bring lots of pads and friends as spotters and pad movers. It’s a long rambling climb and traverses around the boulder at the top. Lots of pad shuffling.
There are two downclimb options I used. First is back down Slab 2 on your bum. See Downclimb Photo 1. The other is a bit more solid with a short jump to a pad. You’ll find this on the opposite side (trail side) See Downclimb photo 2.
There is not much info about this boulder out there but this is what I have from others and the couple of problems I put up recently.

NEW:
Over The Horn, V1. 3 meters (15 feet)
Start on the right (SW) corner of the West face (back to ocean) and climb straight up and over a slabby reach to an awesome horn. FA: Erinn Locke

Dead Rock Lobster, V1. 3 meters (12 feet)
On the West face (setting sun, back to ocean) Just to the left of Over The Horn. Much the same type of climb. Nice holds until topping out on the featureless slab. FA: Erinn Locke

Look, A Fossil!, V2.
On the South face start low on the left making your way up and to the right. Follow the cracks. Top out before getting over the smaller boulders in the landing area. …look for the fossils! FA: Erinn Locke

Slab 1 and Slab 2, V0.
On the west face of the boulder (ocean side) two nice slabby warm up climbs. If you want to make it a bit more difficult Slab 1 has a nice flake you can start from a lay back overhang …if you really wanted to.

Project 4: ….future look. Convoluted start moving onto a slabby traverse to the top.

PREVIOUS:
Party Bus, V3
This is the classic climb on this boulder. There are two top out option. See the photo.
According to Mountain Project, Highball Boulder, 20 ft. FA: James Robbins
Description: Highball problem on the tallest face (North face) of the boulder. Start on the easy climbing slightly right of center and then go diagonally up and left following the crack feature to top out
mountainproject.com/route/1…

Always Sunny in CBS, V7
According to Mountain Project, Boulder, 10 ft. FA: Dave Stack
Description: Start on crimps low down and climb up the small overhanging face before reaching out left to slopers to work your way over the lip. Located on the smaller, more overhanging face (East face) next to the trail. (see photo)
mountainproject.com/route/1…

According to the original bouldering guide by Phil Smith and Sean McDowell there are two problems on the trail side of the boulder also. See photo.
Graffiti, V2
SDS problem that starts on the land facing side. Proceed up and left over the bulge. (FA Unknown)
Return (Project) …this may be the same as Always Sunny in CBS.
Project to the right of Problem one. Climb directly up from crimps. SDS

ALSO
Wreck Liam for a Dream, V4/5. FA: Chester Eckmier.
On the arete to the left of Party Bus. Sit start hugging the arete then rock onto the slab.
Thanks Brendan Hayward! Sep 23, 2018