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Areas in Uksedal (Uskedalen)

Øktertindveggen 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 1,553 ft
GPS: 59.894, 5.936 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,184 total, 39/month
Shared By: aaron hope on Jun 12, 2015
Admins: Michael Sullivan
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Description

Locals call it the Yosemite of Norway, without the crowds. You may come across one other party, but you'll likely only see sheep. The place offers pristine cracks with surprisingly good granite friction. Routes go from short, a couple pitches to 20 pitch grade IVs. Development is relatively new, within the last two decades. If only it didn't get so much rain....
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Getting There

There's great camping by the coast, right off the main road, at the Mouth of the valley, Rabben Campground. Showers and laundry are available. From the main road its about a 15 to 30 minute drive, depending on where you want to climb. For more details get the The Bergen Climbing Club’s book, Klatrefører for Uskedalen.

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Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
The guidebook is available, only in Norwegian at bergen-klatreklubb.no

There's a really nice campground right in town that wasn't too expensive. They have bathrooms with coin operated showers, a washroom for dishes and laundry, a BBQ area, a small shop (that sometimes stocks the guidebook!), etc. Bring as much food and supplies with you as possible as stuff is expensive in Norway. You can also backcountry camp at numerous places closer to the crag as long as you're out of sight of a house (or so goes the law in Norway).

Count on approaches taking an hour or so if you know where you're going. There are a few key places to park along the road that goes up the valley. Be sure to scout your parking place and your approach line the day before as none of this is all that straightforward, even with the guidebook and translating it to English.

There is a river you must cross on any approach. On our trip we utilized two bridges, depending on where we were going. The furthest one down is accessed by parking where the newer pavement ends at a little circular kind of area with a fence on the right (59.892956, 5.955355). From here you'll be up on a small hill and can look down towards the bridge and the farm track that leads to it...carefully grab the insulator on the electrified fence across the bridge to let your party pass and then replace it. Once across at this point you have a couple options to meander up on your approach depending on where your route starts. Going right along the river will get you to a sorta path that generally follows the fence-line up the hill. Going left along the farm path you'll find a switchback at one point that heads up and right...follow your instincts here and work your way up. This approach is good for accessing the area around the route "Hvorfor er ikke denne gatt for?" and "Annenhver er god".

The other bridge is a small swinging bridge that's directly across a field that's in front of a large barn adjacent to the road (59.900663, 5.941056). After crossing you'll be in this semi-swampy area around the power line cut. Cross through this and meander more or less straight up until you break out from the tree line. There are some approach lines that have cairns marking the way but mostly you'll be weaving your way up through the heather and bracken. This will get you in the area of "Silkveinen", "Bob Roger", "Dronning Maud Land" (which starts up on a ledge about 2 pitches up), etc.

There are also a few low-water crossings where you can wade across. There may be other small bridges that we didn't use.

Be prepared for either a long walk-off (for routes that top out) or for a complicated descent that may involve downclimbing 5.4ish terrain and possibly an improvised rap. Rappel stations are few and far between and only on certain routes like the area by Midsummer Nights Dream and the cliff that Dronning Maud Land is on.

Finally, gear recommendations...good waterproof hiking boots for the approach, double ropes, doubles of cams to #1 BD size (1.5") can be useful (though you want one in the #3BD size (3") piece on a number of climbs), offset cams in small sizes would be very useful, RPs or brass offsets are great too in addition to a regular rack of nuts.

This place is awesome and absolutely gorgeous, but like Aaron said, if only it didn't rain so damn much...cuz it ain't like you can go drinkin' on the rainy day unless you wanna break the bank! Oct 1, 2015
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Rock and Ice had a good article on this place.
climbing.com/route/higher-c… Jun 12, 2015

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