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Areas in Universal Wall

Sesame Street 0 / 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Universal Wall- Left 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 8,300 ft
GPS: 36.264, -115.669 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 5,996 total, 196/month
Shared By: Thomas Beck on Jun 11, 2015
Admins: Justin Johnsen

Description

Universal Wall: page under construction as I assemble contributions
According the Las Vegas BLM climbing rangers part of the Uiversal Wall has a Wilderness designation. According to the contour map shown on Wilderness. net the boundaries run along the rim of the Universal Wall. See this link and enlarge: wilderness.net/map. The boundareis are shown as a green line. Details
Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details

Getting There

How do you get to the Universal Wall?

Find your way to Mary Jane Falls trailhead parking.

Follow the 157 past the Charleston Fire Station and go straight on Echo Road where the 157 turns left to go up the hill to the old Charleston Hotel.

Follow Echo Road and the signs to the Mary Jane parking lot trail head. Look south and you will see the 1200 ft.grey and golden Universal Wall.

Cross the wood fence and go south across the meadow. There is a chopped off at 4' small pine tree for a good initial marker. Cross in the dry wash. Behind it, still south, is a steep gully. See photo of trail start on the Sesame Street page.
Ascend the gully about 60 meters and break right towards a old large stump. Before the stump the climber's trail begins switch-backing up the hill. There aren't many cairns now but the trail is pretty clear. It generally follows linked game trails and stays out of any drainage’s. About ¾ of a mile up there will be a short limestone cliff on your left.

Follow the trail to the top of a wooded buttress and go right to a very short descent into the hanging "meadow". For Sesame Street....Go through the copse of bent over Aspen trees and climb the slope to the wall. I'm gonna guess it's less than 0.5 mile. Average time up with a load is 45 minutes, an hour at a casual pace. Total distance to the hanging meadow is around 1.5 miles. Sesame Street shades in the afternoon; as of April 29th, 2015 around 1:30 PM. Routes left of the Hummingbird Arete (the fairly prominent and chossy lower angle feature) are shady by 10:30 and stay that way till 4:30 PM in the summer. The "Hydra" corner is in shade around noon. Climb slightly harder or much harder stuff in the shade while you wait for the sun to pass over.

Alternately you can ascend the main drainage gully of the Universal Wall. Simply cross the meadow going slightly west to find the start of the trail. It is also a good trail and shorter than the first one but with more rocks and downed logs to cross over. Takes you into the bottom of the hanging meadow.

A simple caveat: If you go into that area when snow is on the rim of the Universal Wall or the summit of Charleston is freezing overnight, you will be exposing yourself to a higher chance of rockfall from the rim. I wouldn't go after a couple days of heavy rain for the same reason. Believe me a helmet won't help much in that situation.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Universal Wall

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The danger factor cannot be overemphasized for this place. When you climb, rocks fall, when it rains, rocks fall, and when the sun shines, rocks fall. At least 1 helmet should be worn, and that goes for your dog at the base too. Climbing within 200 feet of a party above you (seriously) is a death sentence, and if anyone were working on routes from high on the wall they could easily trundle something that would could fly and bounce 150 yards or more in 3 directions. This is not a good place to bring a pack of kids or group of people not on their toes. Aug 5, 2017
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
A mediocre climber full of righteous trad ethics that at the base he doesn't even respect (FA prerogative being a large part)? Move aside Mr. Howard, LV has a new name in internet ass hattery. Jul 22, 2015
RRGEllis
Kentucky
RRGEllis   Kentucky
Uhh ohh. We got a badass over here. Threatening to chop an entire wall seems like the best possible way to handle this. Especially since the entire local climbing community has agreed and formed an ethnic on universal that it's going. To be a sport wall. And it appears you're the only one who seems to give a shit on something it seems you know so little about. I think you're just upset those little 5.8 slabs were already done so you could FA them. But looking at your history you don't really care if it's been done or named before because you'll probably just rename it. Jul 22, 2015
If you think someone is being stupid...try to talk to that someone...which in this case is likely Tom Beck. See if he did the thing that has so offended you. Discuss it..."not" accusing anyone in this open forum in the most rude way possible...is not going to help in the least.

Personally, it seems that you are highly unlikely to actually want to discuss the issue with the person responsible. Rather, you want to display your "route development superiority". Jul 22, 2015
Trad gumby arrives in Vegas/learns to climb, reads too much Twight, and goes to a sport climbing area expecting traditional ethics. More at 11. Jul 21, 2015
"Brian" would be referring to the late great Brian McCray and the type of bolting you are describing was almost certainly not done by him. Although, he did put up some hard multi-pitches up there.

Thomas Beck is active on this site. SO, why not ask him if he did the bolting that has so offended you. Discuss the benefits and reasons against, etc. It actually does sound kind of bad/messy...but it has to be discussed...not just deemed unilaterally unacceptable by the Rudeboy.

Your post is probably completely unproductive as it is so inline with your screen name.

Kind of like the below:

These bolts bad...Rudeboy routes good yo! The Rudeboy has spoken; discussion done BRAH!
Jul 21, 2015

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