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Areas in Card Deck

Ace's Face 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Hole Card 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

The best portion - the north face, including Ace's Face - is a north to northwest facing wall about 500 feet high and about as wide. Its good rock quality and consistent, high angle would make it a classic, if it only were easier to get to.

Sandwiched between the north face of the Card Deck and the Lambda Wall, are rock ridges of lesser size and usually lower quality.
Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Getting There

Go to the base of the Lambda Wall and then traverse left as if going to West Face of Lambda but continue left (and drop some) past three large gullies, going up the fourth one. (There is a cairn there near the base of the gully.) The approach takes about 2 and half hours from the car, and from the Lambda Wall onward it is a pure bushwhack over rocky, steep, and unfortunately vegetated terrain. It's not quite the nightmare of a pure stand of cat claw or cactus, but it's not easy.

The original approach was from the north. Today, one could probably go cross country from the parking lot at Baylor Pass Trail, but this remains to be tested and is not recommended without large clippers to deal with the cat claw.

2 Total Climbs

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Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
Here is what I heard about climbing on the Card Deck from Karl Kiser: "Edmund Ward did most of the exploration in the area. If one climbs on the left side of the formation, the pro may be thin (up to R). Jokers Wild is the climb to do. Be prepared for old school 5.8. A small bolt kit might be useful but I remember one could bypass the bolt protected face at the top."

I have climbed what I thought was the first pitch of Joker's Wild (Approached from Lambda Wall). The climbing was about 5.6 and protectable. It did look distinctly harder above, but no more than a grade or two. "Old school 5.8" is well above 5.8 though, and I am sure the climb earns that grade eventually. Jun 27, 2015

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