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Routes in Sugar Bowl

Anything but Sun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backdoor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five O'clock Shadow T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Laundry Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spoiled by Shade T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stairs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Elevation: 5,314 ft
GPS: 32.464, -106.783 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,092 total · 27/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Jun 10, 2015
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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The wall is about 300 feet tall at the highest point, about 500 feet or so wide. It faces basically north, with a sort of a bowl shape in its center. The rock varies from quite solid to somewhat fractured to really fractured. It's called the Sugar Bowl not because it's sweet, but because much of it looks like a bowl of sugar cubes. Loose.

The angle of the rock is quite variable. There are some easy slabs to the left of the bowl, some overhangs, some stretches of steep ground, but the most common terrain is steep but still somewhat slabby. There do appear to be some really fine, even if not especially long, cracks. The area provides good summer climbing, especially in the morning, but its location in the Dona Ana Mountains means a hot walk back to the car.

Getting There

Location of area: Behind Checkerboard, left of Windy Woman.
Driving directions: Leave Jornada Road as if heading to Checkerboard. Turn right onto Power Line Road. At the gate, turn left. Turn left again when the road forks. Stop shortly before or at the large boulder. Sugar Bowl will be on your left with about 20 minute approach.

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Mark Motes and I did a two pitch climb (5.8ish) on the right side of the formation in the mid 1980s. I remember some sort of right facing dihedral and a little crack climbing. Pro was decent. Dec 29, 2016
climber pat
Las Cruces, NM
climber pat   Las Cruces, NM
Karl, I was hoping you might comment on the history.

I climbed Fire Escape at least 3 times in the 1980s. Ted Dunning and I also climbed something about 5.10 on the south side (far right) in the 1980s too. I suspect all the routes were climbed in that time frame. My map showing Sugarbowl says "New routes going up weekly". I think Matt was involved but not sure. We brought down about 5 pounds of webbing left from rappelling off the Balcony. There was an ancient rappel anchor just below the overhang on Backdoor so somebody backed off that. Back Alley is the only route that might be a FA. There was/is lots of loose flakes on the face near the cracks and no evidence that anyone had been there before; not that there would be any evidence. It is certainly easy enough to have been climbed before. Dec 29, 2016
It is good you all developed more and posted the area. There is always a need for climbs in the shade. I also think Damian Kessler climbed at the Sugar Bowl (bolt up high somewhere?). Matt Monagle and I worked on Batman Rock a little east and shorter than the Sugar Bowl. Dec 30, 2016

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