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Routes in North Face Tiffany Mountain

NE Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1-2
North Tower Ridge Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tower Arete T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Elevation: 8,245 ft
GPS: 48.671, -119.932 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 682 total, 22/month
Shared By: applewood on Jun 9, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
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Description

Tiffany Mtn is the jewel of the Eastern Pasaytens and her NE side has potential for some fine short alpine climbing. It is a beautiful mini alpine zone, and is a great place for a beginning alpine climber to cut their teeth. The 650' tall north face is broken up by several couloirs, arĂȘtes and vertical granite cliffs. The snow melts fairly early in the summer (soon after the roads are accessible), so the sooner the better for the couloirs. The "NE Couloir" route is the longest, most prominent and direct snow chute on the left side of the face. The "North Tower Ridge" route climbs mostly excellent rock up the tower on the right side of the face.

The area is beautiful and secluded feeling, the approach is easy, and the views during the climb and once on top are spectacular.

Getting There

From Conconully either drive up North Fork Salmon Creek and over Lone Frank Pass (almost an hour on a narrow 4WD road - 21.3 miles) or up the South Fork and over Baldy Pass (almost 2 hours on a longer 2WD gravel road - 30.6 miles), or approach from the Methow Valley (about an hour on a good 2WD gravel road - 26.5 miles). Park at Tiffany Springs campground (6760') and follow the pleasant trail (#373) east past Tiffany Lake to Honeymoon Pass (7150', 45 minutes). From Honeymoon Pass either traverse south on the grassy east slope to the small cirque at the base of the N. Face (7360'), or hike up the trail on the north side of the ridge leading to Little Tiffany Lake and drop down to the small cirque from above.

In the winter/early spring a snowmobile/ski approach would be possible.

3 Total Climbs

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