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Toyota Area Bouldering (Ootaki Gorge area-Komiyama) Climbing


Routes in Toyota Area Bouldering (Ootaki Gorge area-Komiyama)

Ichinan satte V5-6 6C+ PG13
Reach V1- 5- PG13

Description

This is primarily a bouldering area with a few nice looking sport and trad climbs on big boulders. It was first developed in the mid 1980s by Mr. Suzuki (first name may be Shunroku), who is often there with friends.
It has boulders from a wide variety of grades, which go by a locals-only system of 'a-g' with 'a' being the easiest; 'f' is about 2-dan and 'g' is 3-dan and above. (You can find a conversion system here ).

The central and most popular area is Komiyama, a dense collection of large boulders. There are several others not far from here.

This area can get crowded, especially in the winter, when it is one of the best areas in the region with warm enough weather to climb. Even if it is crowded, there are countless boulders for exploring in the region. Most are not in any guidebook.

See also: Thousand Cranes climbing in Japan blog

For topos, see Kitayama Makoto's Nihon 100 Iwaba #4

Getting There

By public transportation: Take the Meitetsu train to Toyota (home of the car company). From the east exit of the station, take the bus to Matsudaira bashi. There are not many busses to this area- maybe one per hour, maybe less. If you have the Japanese to check, it would be worth it. When I was there, the bus left at 20 after the hour from bus stop #2 on the east side of the station.
The Matsubaira-bashi stop is just after you go under the expressway and cross the river. The bus turns downstream and you want to get off just after the bridge.
From Matsubaira bashi walk along the road upstream until you reach a parking lot with a rest room. Go a bit further upstream to a gorge that heads off to your right. Follow the stream along the gorge until you see signs for 古美山 and a small trail heading off to your left. The whole area has lots of boulders and developed routes, but this is the central one. There will probably be people climbing and perhaps they can show you around.
You could also probably take a cab to Ootaki-cho parking lot, but it is a reasonably long way away and probably expensive.
If you have a car then the approach is negligible. There is parking nearby. Get off the expressway at the Toyota-Matsudaira exit, head east, turn left after crossing the river. You could park at the lot mentioned above, but you could also turn right after Otaki-cho and look for pullouts with cars near a restroom.

This hiking trail map is good for the area, but the way I described is faster and cheaper from Nagoya.
# 14 Ootaki Gorge: nic-nagoya.or.jp/en/e/archi…
nic-nagoya.or.jp/en/image/i…

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