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Galeb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waiting for Kate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 38 ft
GPS: 43.176, 16.423 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 307 total, 10/month
Shared By: Dustin Clelen on Jun 1, 2015
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Description

A small seaside crag with relatively short routes. As of May 2015 this crag was still undergoing development, with several routes that had gone up since the 2014 edition of the Cujic guidebook.

The climbing is not stupendous, but the area is worth a visit if you're looking for relative seclusion right next to the water. If you're looking for a trunkless dip in the Med immediately post-climb, this could be your place.

There are 11 routes documented in Cujic's book, but we found several bolted lines that weren't in the most recent addition. The lines in the Cujic book range from 30-70 feet, and are from 5.8 to 5.12c, with most in the 5a-6b+ (5.8-5.11a) range.

Getting There

This one takes a little work.

You do need to cross private property to access this crag. The locals we spoke with laughed when we suggested that the owners may not like having strangers on their land. This came as a pleasant shock to my wife and I, who are used to living under the 'Make My Day' rule in Colorado, which allows you to shoot first and ask questions later if trespassers are found on your property.

The parking area is difficult to find, and is essentially the same parking that the property owner mentioned above would use to park in front of his house. It is public street parking, but there are literally about 3 spots for cars. Consequently, Cujic recommends just walking from downtown Hvar during busy summer months. It's about a 30 minute (very scenic along the water) walk from the main square in Hvar town to the parking area.

The easiest way to describe the location of the parking area is with GPS coordinates. Cut and paste these numbers into google maps (make sure you're using google maps, not just google), and it will tell you how to get there way better than I ever will:

43.177065, 16.425293

Those GPS coordinates will take you to the beginning of a tunnel (the Google directions look like they are taking you way out of your way, but they are actually the easiest way to drive there. If you're walking, just walk along the water from Hvar and you'll get there...but take a map and know where you're headed). The tunnel is about a half-mile long, and you can park on the side of the tunnel opposite the crag if the parking spaces are full. Drive or walk through the tunnel, and when you get to the other side, take an immediate right and you'll be at the (tiny) parking area. If the GPS coordinates fail, make sure you're actually using google maps (just googling them doesn't work for some reason). If that doesn't work just search for "Hotel Sirena Hvar" in google maps. The road you want is called "Put Podstina" and is the road you would take to get from Hotel Sirena to Hotel Podstine.

Directions from the parking area to the crag:
Walk past the "No Kamping" signs through the recently cleared / clearcut patch of land without a clear trail of any kind toward the sea. Trend downhill and away from the house that will be on your left, looking for a faint climber trail that begins to head along the water to your right as you're facing the sea. There are many variations in the beginning because the trail is not well-used, but generally you want to be as close to the water as possible. Keep scrambling and bushwhacking, passing at least one area where a walk through the water is mandatory (maybe tide-dependent). Total approach time with routefinding took us 30 minutes from the parking area.

The largest concentration of routes is in a small protected area behind a large boulder, right before you scramble back down toward the water again (see pictures). Painted route plaques mark the climbs.

2 Total Climbs

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