Filopappou Rock Climbing
|GPS:||37.965, 23.718 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Connie Shang on May 27, 2015|
The locals use the base of the crag for bouldering and traverses; you can climb the full extent of the crag with a 30m rope and 5-7 quickdraws. There appear to be 14 short bolted sport routes with numbers painted at the start of each (0-13), with a mix of rappel rings and/or cold shuts at the top. Bring a stick clip if you don't feel comfortable on the initial boulder problem, as the first bolt is typically 5m or higher. This isn't your friendly Kalymnos bolting.
The rock type is a fascinating combination of medium-quality limestone at the base and cryptic marble at the top. The boulder problems can feel greasy and polished at times, but the routes appear to be seldom climbed (yet well-maintained). There is little to no chalk on routes, enabling you to practice your route-reading skills. Expect mostly technical slab climbing on decent crimps and ample footholds. Routes range from 5a-7a.
Fun fact: to keep your belayer on their toes, the base of the crag is hollow and evidently serves as a homeless shelter at times. Watch that your camp isn't doubling as a shelter (or latrine).
We went on a nice Saturday morning and didn't see a single other climber there.
From the Acropolis, walk down the boulevard Dionysiou Areopagitou until you reach the entrance to Filopappou Hill. Pick a left trail and follow the trails clockwise, circling the hill until you reach an abandoned shack/shelter to the left, and a large paved clearing with tall white cliffs to the right. These are not it. Follow the path forward and keep walking about 250m, passing the scaffolding. Through the bushes and trees, you will start to notice bolts and and painted numbers on the crag to your right.
From metro stop Petralona go to "Dora Stratou Theater". Next to the parking lot of the theater there is an entrance. Follow the uphill.
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