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Routes in The Nursery

Art of Turd Polishing, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Baby Steps S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Beaver Patrol T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
End of State Maintenance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fuzzy Muffin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hazy Dazy S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hot Wet Noodles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kate's Way S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kentucky Two Step S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lesser of Two Evils, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Master of Puppets S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nursery Route 1 (closed) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Pixadoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solomon Grundy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Southern Satisfaction S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stick in the Eye S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Elevation: 933 ft
GPS: 37.651, -83.678 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,910 total · 215/month
Shared By: EthanC on May 26, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike
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Description

The large collection of easy routes makes this a great area to take children or beginner climbers, with two exceptions. This area is remote and has not seen a lot of traffic, anticipate rocks breaking; children should be kept away from the base of the wall and all climbers and belayers should be wearing helmets. Additionally, this is a fairly long, though not strenuous, approach hike. About 30-40 minutes from the parking area.

When the trail nears the wall and you see a teepee, head left for a small area which has some stunning hard projects and a collection of short easy sport climbs. Head right for the 11s and a series of slabby 5.7s.

Getting There

From the parking lot, head over the bridge and fork left to the main road. Continue straight past a number of pull offs and turns, when the road forks and there is a sign for highlands/serenity point, head right. (The other option is to fork right after the bridge and take the new trail to avoid the muddy section of the road. When the new trail intersects a larger trail, head left through the reeds back to the main road and continue on. It's about the same distance.)

The road will start to seem more trail-like. Eventually you will get to small tree downed across the trail, there is a rock pile which has the word "Nursery" scratched into it. The trail ascends steeply up the left, it is about 5 minutes walk past the turn off for Fruit Wall.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Nursery

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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