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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bad Hombres S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Black Swan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coyote Ugly S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Final Countdown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I Love My Wife S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Off the Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust the Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Elevation: 8,000 ft
GPS: 35.307, -111.705 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,247 total · 439/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons Details

Description

The gateway to The Main Wall, this area is packed with charm, striking steep lines, and the hardest routes up here! Please be considerate with your gear, as the trail unfortunately serves double duty as belay areas. This sector includes all routes climber's left of entrance trail south until the route just beyond the bobble routes where the wall gets chossy.

Getting There

Routes to the left of entrance trail.

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 84
Clean Slate
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
The Creature
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 76
Off the Couch
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 15
Sunny Side
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 11
5.10 Fever
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
50/50
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
I Love My Wife
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
Top Kill
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 9
Trust the Process
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 52
Prosthesis
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 49
16 Weeks
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
The Whistle Stop
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 23
Black Swan
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
Shaman School
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Clean Slate
 84
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Creature
 21
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Off the Couch
 76
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sunny Side
 15
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
5.10 Fever
 11
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
50/50
 10
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
I Love My Wife
 28
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Top Kill
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Trust the Process
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad
Prosthesis
 52
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
16 Weeks
 49
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
The Whistle Stop
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Black Swan
 23
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Shaman School
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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