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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Black Swan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I Love My Wife S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Elevation: 8,000 ft
GPS: 35.307, -111.705 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 13,514 total, 433/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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Description

The gateway to The Main Wall, this area is packed with charm, striking steep lines, and the hardest routes up here! Please be considerate with your gear, as the trail unfortunately serves double duty as belay areas. This area includes all routes climber's left of entrance trail to the route just beyond the conspicuous line 50/50, just before the wall gets, um, chossy.
Forest Service Parking Requests Details

Getting There

Left of entrance trail.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean Slate
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
The Creature
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Off The Couch
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sunny Side
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
5.10 Fever
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
50/50
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I Love My Wife
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Top Kill
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Trust The Process
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prosthesis
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
16 Weeks
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
The Whistle Stop
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Swan
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shaman School
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Clean Slate 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Creature 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Off The Couch 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sunny Side 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
5.10 Fever 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
50/50 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
I Love My Wife 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Top Kill 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Trust The Process 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad
Prosthesis 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
16 Weeks 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
The Whistle Stop 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Black Swan 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Shaman School 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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