Elevation: 8,694 ft
GPS: 35.307, -111.705 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 70,473 total · 1,625/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons Details

Description

Continued access requires responsible parking. Do not park on the road side. The Forest Service needs to keep this road clear in case of fire or other emergencies that may arise in the backcountry. FR 522 is one of very few access roads to this part of the mountain. If the regular lot is full, continue on FR 522 for one hundred yards to another small parking area on the south side of the road. Do not park in numbered camp sites unless you are actually camping. DO NOT BLOCK THE ROAD IN ANY FASHION. 

The Peak’s Crag is a 90' tall row of weathered dacite tucked up in a shallow canyon amongst the giant aspens, and fat ponderosas on the southern flanks of The San Francisco Peaks. This gorgeous area is one of the most beautiful cragging venues in Flagstaff.

This area remains one of only three small route climbing areas in the whole of the San Francisco Peaks. Sad but true, and it's this fact, coupled with the crags seasonally easy access off the heals of Snow Bowl Rd and Forest Rd 522 that have lead to it becoming more popular in the last decade as more and more ascents have lead to cleaner routes and a better over all climbing experience. Essentially a three season crag, as winter brings the closure of FR 522 and appropriate parking is all but cut off. This road generally closes with the first heavy snow of the season and typically opens mid April.

This small crag has very engaging traditional gear routes interspersed with thoughtful sport lines. There are very few routes here under 5.9. However, you will find very entertaining routes up to 5.14-, and at least several good lines in each grade from 5.10 up. Though there aren't of ton of great lines, there are classics to be had. Locals love it, while most visitors I run into find it sharp and just above average. However, it’s hard to deny the pleasure of the uniquely positive routes.

This wall faces southeast, and gets great morning sun, before going into full shade in the early afternoon. This arrangement makes for perfect temp chasing on projects throughout the season. Whether you are escaping the summer heat, or reveling in the mix of crisp temps and dazzling fall colors, this aesthetic wall is sure to please. It has become over the decades a cherished local crag to the Flagstaff climbing community, and a very special way for us to interact with Peaks!

If you are new to the crag, please do not run off with the anchor biners. Many of the anchors there are specifically set up for biners. If one is worn past your comfort level, simply substitute one of your freshies and call the 7$ a little bit of climber Karma. Many of the popular routes have Fixe steel Draco biners on thier anchors.

This area is now an observed, Peregrin Falcon nesting site by the U.S. Forest Service. If you see falcons please give them plenty of space, if not that whole sector, and certainly don’t climb anywhere near thier nest. You’ll know all about it if they are actively nesting as they are perhaps one of the most vocal birds in these woods, and screeching calls of annoyance will be delivered to you rather quickly if you get too close. Though removed from the endangered species list and considered a stable population, they remain a protected species under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act and The Forest Service has the authority to effect closures for Peregrine Falcons because they are listed on the regionally generated Sensitive Species list. This list was updated in 2012 and comes down from the Southwest Regional Office in Albuquerque with input from the Game and Fish Dept. It’s always good to remember that while these crags entertain us immensely, they are home to a wide variety of animals. Temporary closures may be effected if it is determined necessary for the protection of vulnerable nest sites.

Getting There

Drive west out of Flagstaff on Fort Vally Road/ Hwy 180, passing the Museum Of Northern Arizona. Turn right onto Snow Bowl RD and proceed upward for several miles.

Eventually, after some switch backing, you will encounter FR 522 on the right (east) side of the road. It is quite conspicuous with a steel gate not more than 50' off the road. It should be well marked. Drive up a rocky hill for a 1/8 mile to a small parking area at the top of a rise on the north side of FR 522. It also serves as a trail head.

Hike 1/8 mile up obvious old two track trail heading north from the parking area. After several minutes, at a large bend, keep your eyes peeled while looking for a climber's trail that breaks off right by a fallen tree over the main trail. If you hike past an old scrap of a rusty car off the main trail in, you've gone too far.

Once you are on the climber's trail, you can shut down your radar, as you follow this trail for 30 minutes through splendid scenery, cascades of lichen covered boulders, and a steady, gentle uphill grade. The trail leads you straight to the Main Wall.

Peaks Crag Aerial Overview/Approach. Not to scale.

71 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Peak’s Crag Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Peak’s Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 86
Clean Slate
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 55
Latebloomer
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 100
New River
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 78
Off the Couch
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 94
Giggle Drops
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 43
Hobo Joe
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 39
Flowrider
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 52
Prosthesis
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 50
16 Weeks
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 59
Be Yourself
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 51
Be the Burn
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 55
Chasing Dragons
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 22
Burning Point
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 32
Up in Smoke
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 25
Black Swan
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Clean Slate Middle Area
 86
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Latebloomer S End
 55
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
New River N End
 100
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Off the Couch Middle Area
 78
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Giggle Drops S End
 94
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Hobo Joe N End
 43
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Flowrider S End
 39
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Prosthesis Middle Area
 52
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
16 Weeks Middle Area
 50
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Be Yourself N End
 59
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Be the Burn S End
 51
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Chasing Dragons N End
 55
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Burning Point S End
 22
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Up in Smoke S End
 32
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Black Swan Middle Area
 25
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Peak’s Crag »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
To even better add to the mysterium of Peaks climbing and "A Cheap Way to Die", Toula recently made his first visit to The Peaks Area and had no idea that it even existed or not... Does this mean there still is a super crag mirage somewhere out there!? May 26, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
It probably doesn't look the same as it used to, if he ever saw it. He used references quite a bit. It might have been the Coats that told him about it? May 26, 2015
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
He seemed to not remember if he had been told about it or maybe that he had made it up... Classic

Either way he had a good time up there... May 26, 2015