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Routes in Conejo Boulders

Elevation: 1,000 ft
GPS: 34.197, -118.964 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 15,325 total, 485/month
Shared By: Ar Py on May 4, 2015
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

These breccia boulders are nestled in and around the crag "Mystery Science Theater" in the rolling hills of Newbury Park. This is the same rock type as Echo Cliffs and the majority of Malibu.

The rock here can be quite brittle and sharp at times but smooth and subtle at others. There are good lines up here but most are a little crumby still. 98% of the bouldering here is lowball one move wonder kinda stuff but there are proving to be quite a number of lip traverses that offer fun moves. Landings are generally very good to excellent. Knock on flakes and iffy holds before trusting them. Needs a day or two after a steady rain shower like most of the rock around here. Watch out for mountain bikers. Lots of potential for more bouldering and roped climbing the further back Edison Rd. you go though there is some private land to watch out for back there. Areas can be found by scrolling down to the photos below.

Grading is pretty much the efforts of a small group of guys, feel free to throw in if you want.

I love this place not as much for the quality of the climbing (which has come up significantly due to the efforts of inspired locals like Michael, Stu, and Alex. All three have established physically and mentally challenging boulder problems that would garner attention in any boulder garden) but more for the beautiful serenity being out here offers. Having fun with your friends is the name of the game and this place offers that up in spades. Trash has never been a huge problem up here but please pack out what you pack in.

La Barrenca is listed as "Coyote Beach" in a few guidebooks. I've never heard anyone talk about this place by any name other than La Barrenca. No one climbs there. Located in a canyon by a park off Ventu Rd. The rock here is water polished hard sandstone conglomerate with a delicate dusting of fecal matter. The old sport climb has since faded to nothing. Access is a bit of a nightmare (made more so by having a pad). You can walk around and up the canyon to find a decent sized boulder with overhanging futuristic lines around the downstream side, it takes about 30 minutes and all the problems look V-impossible. Equally as deterring to access, however, is that this area isn't exactly a wildlife preserve- it's upstream of a sewage treatment plant so take that into mind when brushing off your problems (IE don't brush your problems unless you want to be patient zero). Surprisingly a bit of a party scene on the weekends. Lots of graffiti.

The "Lonesome Cube" down in Camarillo Springs park is fenced off indefinitely but there are a few lowballs up the dirt road with super greasy (and glued-on) holds.

You already probably know this stuff. If you've read this far you're either stuck in this town, too lazy/ can't drive to Stoney, or are a local who saw chalk on a boulder. Probably all three. Hey Alex.

There's an abundance of poison oak in the area, especially in the Irish Boulders. The Irish Boulders also get overgrown rather quickly as they're on the shadier side of the hill. Just keep an eye out and you'll be okay.

Other stuff: Beer - Lagunitas IPA. After climbing get a Three Amigos Burrito at the namesake establishment across from Borchard Park. The schools get out around 2 every day so for an hour the town is a traffic jam but before and after, especially on weekdays, you'll be by yourself. Best gas prices are the Arco off of Borchard and the 76 off of Wendy.
Approach from Calle Alta Vista trailhead. Details

Getting There

Get off the 101 on Wendy. Get onto Old Conejo Rd. Take Reino to a turn on Lesser toward the hills, a left on Calle Alta Vista and park by the fire hydrant. Time from freeway to parking should be less than 10 minutes. Trailhead is on your left. 20 minute walk along the cleared trail gets you to the start of the bouldering. Every boulder problem has pictures and beta.

61 Total Climbs

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