Conejo Boulders Climbing

These breccia boulders are nestled in and around the crag Mystery Science Theater in the rolling hills of Newbury Park. This is the same rock type as Echo Cliffs and the majority of Malibu though much less traveled. This place is fun to spend the day at not so much for the quality of the climbing, which has come up significantly thanks to the efforts of inspired locals like Randall Phenning, Stuart Wilson, Alex Ostrovsky, Michael DiFronzo and visiting climbers like Zach Taylor, but more for the serenity. From beautiful views of Mount Boney over Newbury Park while the sun sets to foggy morning sessions above the 101 Fwy , the Conejo Boulders have something for nearly everyone. If having fun for you is pulling down on micro-crimps, intricate roofs, and ticking mega hard bps then you may want to keep driving to SB. Having fun rock climbing with your friends is the name of the game out here!

Please note that holds do break here. A lot. The rock here can be quite brittle and sharp at times but smooth and nuanced just a few feet away. Check topouts for choss and don't trundle down by the freeway. Landings are generally very good. Knock on flakes and iffy holds before trusting them. There are so many problems *cough* unlike Gainsborough, that finding something solid is a small task. Trash has never been a huge problem, please pack out what you pack in. 

Area information can be found by scrolling down to the photos below. There is no known source of history of previous bouldering near Mystery Science Theater. While it is probable a few of the more obvious lines up by the old parking spot and the main crag were done in decades past we believe we have cleaned most of the lines in this zone. If you have any historic photos or anecdotes we would love to see and read. Any historic problem information is educated speculation by the author.

BPs are arranged from closest to the parking to furthest. Grading is pretty much the efforts of a small group of guys who are not only morphologically similar but also stoked to see anyone else climbing here - please throw your grade assessment into the mix. Development here has been ongoing since the summer of '15, there may be over one hundred boulder problems in this area! Needs a day or two after a steady rain shower like most of the rock around. Watch out for mountain bikers. Tick marks can sometimes help find feet in a sea of pink stone but please remember to brush them off. Guidebooks have categorically dismissed this area based on how dirty it is and for the real access issues. While slack-jawed-climber-tourists clog up the canyons twenty-five miles away one can now enjoy sublime climbing at these easy to access, graffiti free, stones without a soul in sight. Lucky you!

Other Info: Like most places there are special things in this area left behind by people and animals that have lived here for eons. You may stumble onto an old rack or an arrowhead while out searching for rock climbs. You are not the first person and you aren't the last. Please do not disturb anything you find and keep the knowledge of your discovery to yourself as best as you can. If you feel you've found something significant you may notify the Park by calling (805) 370-2301. Please have respect and use the experience to remind yourself that we are all guests out here.

Dangers: Other than a hold breaking causing you to fall back into your spotter who is then impaled by a tree branch...there are a few things to watch out for. Rattlesnakes are often encountered on all but the coldest days. Keep an ear out because you definitely will not spot one before they spot you. Do not step where you cannot see. Deer Ticks are also prevalent during spring and early summer. There's an abundance of Poison Oak in the area, especially in the Irish Boulders. The Irish Boulders also get overgrown rather quickly as they're on the shadier side of the hill. There only a few dozen mountain lions within the state park boundaries, the likelihood that you'll come across one is extremely low. That being said I have been stalked coming down the trail from Boney one night, not a good experience. Coyotes are generally the jovial type though they may try to ambush your dog, keep your best friend on a leash during the dawn and dusk hours. There are a couple of bee hives closer to the freeway and up the power line trail towards Conejo Peak. Do not disturb them.

*Fires are an issue in the hillsides surrounding the 101 fwy. It was due to one particularly devastating, vehicle caused, wildfire that the Irish Boulders were found and developed. If you bring fire out here (cigarettes, 420, flamethrower, whatever) please use your head and use extreme caution. On red flag days it's best to leave sparks at home.*

Beer - Six pack of B.P. Sculpin IPA. Don't need anymore glass out here, try to bring cans in and out. After climbing get a Three Amigos Burrito at the namesake establishment across from Borchard Park. The schools get out around 2 every day so for an hour the town is a traffic jam but before and after, especially on weekdays, you'll be by yourself. Best gas prices are the Arco off of Borchard and the 76 off of Wendy.You already probably know this stuff. If you've read this far you're either stuck in this town, too lazy/ can't drive to Stoney, or are a local who saw chalk on a boulder. Probably all three.

Nearby Areas: La Barrenca (scroll down to wetlands) coined "Coyote Beach" in Craig Fry's Southern California Bouldering '95. I've never heard anyone talk about this place by any name other than La Barrenca. People seldomly climb there. Most landings suck or are watery. There are a few cool jug traverses and up problems. Information on previous development is fleeting at best. Located in a canyon by a park off Ventu Rd. The rock here is water polished hard sandstone conglomerate. The old sport climb has since faded to nothing but you can still see the chains which is neat I guess. Access to the bouldering is a bit of a nightmare that is made more so by having a pad. Rock here is very slippery when wet, use caution.

Alex and I walked around and up the canyon one day to find a decent sized boulder with overhanging futuristic lines around the downstream side, it takes a while to get there though it isn't difficult. All the problems look V-reallyhard. There may be other lines in this area? Take into mind when brushing off your problems that this creek is upstream of the local sewage treatment plant. Maybe bring a mask if you want to clean this place up? Surprisingly a bit of a party scene on summer weekends. Do not jump into the water. Lots of graffiti, some looks gang related. Follow this link to find more photos of the approach. Try and not attract attention if you decide this is your next project area.

 "The Lonesome Cube" down in Camarillo Springs park is fenced off indefinitely but there are a few lowballs up the dirt road with super greasy (and glued-on) holds. Access is up in the air but when it is restored this page will be updated. Problem information is left out but can be found in mid-90s to early 00s guidebooks. Hey Alex.

 (Area info and write up for Conjeo Boulders are by the notorious Randall Phenning)