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Elevation: 6,000 ft 1,829 m
GPS: 34.93826, -111.75559
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,533 total · 81/month
Shared By: Blake M on Apr 16, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

Picturesque wall perched high above Oak Creek Canyon. The wall features quite possibly the best single pitch Coconino climbing in Oak Creek. The routes feature beautiful stone, wild features and varied movement, likely to become classics, should the approach not ward off the clamoring crowds

The wall gets morning sun until about 1pm and then shade from then on.

Getting There Suggest change

Park at the first small pullout on the east side of the road south of slide rock state park. (Don't come in hot). Frogger your way south down 89A until you reach a small grassy drainage on the right side of the road. Head up the gully and along the fence to some slick rock slabs. Ascend a short ways to a faint path on your left that enters the woods. Continue up the faint trail until you move left into the drainage (Cairn). From here cross the main wash and head left up the Gully of Despair. When confronted with the Dank Chimney of Eternal Peril swim right, up vegetation staying near the base of the cliff. At a boulder hand jam between the rock and a tree pulling around into the do not fall zone then tree/boulder stem to a stance. A bush assisted final boulder move leads left to a large tree and the top of the rock band. Now saunter up left to slick rock for a short ways until a faint path leads you back right into the thickest thicket. Follow this cryptic dirt luge, sometimes switchbacking and aiding on vegetation as you see fit up to a nice spruce grove. From here follow the sandy stairmaster up and right past past shed sized boulders until you reach the biggest of the them all, a hulking 35m boulder named the Tallest Midget. From the toe of the midget thrash upward and right towards the wall until you emerge at the base of the Holey Dihedral at a large Juniper tree. Total approach is about 1/3 of a mile and 900 vertical feet. Expect it to take about 1 hour, 40min if you have the beta dialed. Invalids need not apply. Thick skin, pants and sense of humor recommended.

4 Total Climbs

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