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Routes in Bald Rock Dome

Bit Of Honey T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groove, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moroccan Roll T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Six Pitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smooth Operator S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trip Around the Sun T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Description

Bald Rock Dome is an 800 foot dome characterized by stout, old school wilderness climbing with heady runouts on near perfect granite. For the under-prepared, the Dome has "epic" written all over it. Climbing on the Dome has a reputation for being bold and old-school.

Getting There

Both Bald Rock Dome and Big Bald Rock Trailhead are typically approached from the tovvn of Oroville if you are coming from Redding, Chico or Sacramento (see d1ir:ctions belowJfcomingfiom QuincyorReno). From the junction of Highways 70 and 162 in Oroville(set odometer here), take 162 east through town, following it as it turns right about
1.7 miles from Highway 70. Continue on 162 ("Olive Highway") around Lake Oroville
where it becomes the Highway." Follow this to a signed intersection with Bald
Rock Road at about 19.2 miles from Highway 70. Follow Bald Rock Road as it winds through
the hills, passing the first of two intersections with Zink Road at 23.9 miles,1.2 miles further down tl1e road from tJ1e Picnic Area (27.8 from Highway 70), you will intersect Zink Road a second time (GPS: N39'39'36.2" W121 20'06.9"). Here, turn right unto the bumpy, dirt, Forest Service Road 21N51Y (if coming from Quincy, turn left 2.5 miles from Brush Creek). This is also marked with a sign that says, "Dome Trail - 3miles" Most passenger cars should be able to handle this dirt road (21 N51 Y), but after severe rains, or low snow, it may become impassable. Follow this road for 2 miles (29.8 miles from Highway 70) to a parking area located on the right shoulder of the road (GPS N39'38'54.4", W121 °18'57.6"). This parking area is .4 miles past the pre-fabricated home perched on the granite slab on the left side of the road.
walk back up the road about 20', watching for an overgrown trail on the right. Climb the embankment to gain the trail which roughly parallels the road for a 30-40 yards through a tunnel of Manzanita as it curves to the left. The trail can be overgrovvn in this section and requires brief diversions to continue straight. After about .3 miles, watch as the trail veers right and drops steeply down into a gully and then up the opposite slope. Follow this trail up the hillside to the southern shoulder of the Dome. Currently, this section of trail can be difficult to follow if you don't know the route because downed trees and overgrown shrubs throw you off track. It's only a little over .5 miles, but plan on about 10-15 minutes to get to the top of the gully and the shoulder of the Dome.
Here at the top of the gully, you'll need to decide if you'll leave gear or carry it all up the climb. Walking all the way back down the gully, just to retrieve gear would be a mistake (which you'll understand shortly). Leave whatever you won't need here and proceed.
From the shoulder of the dome, head down the gully between Bald Rock Dome and the large slabs on your right. A couple of rappels are required to bypass some exposed 4•" class downclimbs, especially if the gully is wet. Look for slings around trees. At times, fixed ropes have appeared and disappeared along this section, but don't count on them. Plan on about 20-30 minutes just to get down the gully to the base of the Dome.

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David A
Stockholm, Sweden
David A   Stockholm, Sweden
That is a nice lookin' piece of rock. Aug 22, 2016

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