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Elevation: 3,049 ft 929 m
GPS: 39.65376, -121.30749
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Page Views: 21,338 total · 191/month
Shared By: Crimper E6 on Apr 12, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Bald Rock Dome is an 800 foot dome characterized by stout, old school wilderness climbing with heady runouts on near perfect granite. For the under-prepared, the Dome has "epic" written all over it. Climbing on the Dome has a reputation for being bold and old-school.

Getting There Suggest change

Both Bald Rock Dome and Big Bald Rock Trailhead are typically approached from the tovvn of Oroville if you are coming from Redding, Chico or Sacramento (see directions below if coming from Quincy or Reno). From the junction of Highways 70 and 162 in Oroville (set odometer here), take 162 east through town, following it as it turns right about 1.7 miles from Highway 70. Continue on 162 ("Olive Highway") around Lake Oroville where it becomes the Highway." Follow this to a signed intersection with Bald Rock Road at about 19.2 miles from Highway 70. Follow Bald Rock Road as it winds through the hills, passing the first of two intersections with Zink Road at 23.9 miles. 1.2 miles further down the road from the Picnic Area (27.8 from Highway 70), you'll intersect Zink Road a second time (GPS: N39'39'36.2" W121 20'06.9"). Here, turn right onto the bumpy, dirt, Forest Service Road 21N51Y (if coming from Quincy, turn left 2.5 miles from Brush Creek). This is also marked with a sign that says, "Dome Trail - 3 miles." Most passenger cars should be able to handle this dirt road (21 N51 Y), but after severe rains, or low snow, it may become impassable. Follow this road for 2 miles (29.8 miles from Highway 70) to a parking area located on the right shoulder of the road (GPS 39.648444, -121.316000). This parking area is .4 miles past the pre-fabricated home perched on the granite slab on the left side of the road.

Walk back up the road about 20', watching for an overgrown trail on the right. Climb the embankment to gain the trail which roughly parallels the road for a 30-40 yards through a tunnel of manzanita as it curves to the left. The trail can be overgrown in this section and requires brief diversions to continue straight. After about .3 miles, watch as the trail veers right and drops steeply down into a gully and then up the opposite slope. Follow this trail up the hillside to the southern shoulder of the Dome. Currently, this section of trail can be difficult to follow if you don't know the route because downed trees and overgrown shrubs throw you off track. It's only a little over .5 miles, but plan on about 10-15 minutes to get to the top of the gully and the shoulder of the Dome.

(Note post-North Complex Fire -- the "overgrown trail" is now just an obvious ramp/old dirt road/fire line heading up off of the road. No vegetation up there any more other than some crispy trees, so navigation is now dramatically easier than it once was. Just follow your nose to the shoulder of the Dome.)

Here at the top of the gully, you'll need to decide if you'll leave gear or carry it all up the climb. Walking all the way back down the gully, just to retrieve gear would be a mistake (which you'll understand shortly). Leave whatever you won't need here and proceed.

From the shoulder of the dome, head down the gully between Bald Rock Dome and the large slabs on your right. A couple of rappels are required to bypass some exposed 4•th class downclimbs, especially if the gully is wet. Look for slings around trees, and make sure to check whether the trees are still alive -- some made it through the fire and some didn't. At times, fixed ropes have appeared and disappeared along this section, but don't count on them. Plan on about 20-30 minutes just to get down the gully to the base of the Dome.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bald Rock Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 9
Moroccan Roll
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
The Groove
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Six Pitch
Trad 6 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 6
Right of the Groove
Trad 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Moroccan Roll
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 5 pitches
The Groove
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Six Pitch
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 6 pitches
Right of the Groove
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Bald Rock Dome »

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