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Routes in Luisenwand

Kaum Zeit zum Atmen S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Team Motivation S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Elevation: 1,733 ft
GPS: 49.869, 11.137 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 18, 2015
Admins: Shawn Heath
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Description

This stunning wall of generally vertical limestone is set in a beautiful forest just south of Burggrub. The limestone is excellent, though not nearly as featured as most Frankenjura crags, resulting in an excellent assortment of thin, technical face climbs. Polished footholds are a noticeable problem here, and surely some of the more popular lines have become harder as a result. The north-facing crag has a wide, flat base and a great hang.

Apparently this crag was quite popular in the 80’s, though now only the classics see regular action. Wolfgang Gullich left his mark here with several test-pieces, especially Team Motivation, Kaum Zeit zum Atmen (the first Grade X in the Northern Frankenjura), and Kama Sutra 218. In 2008, Markus Bock brought the crag into the modern era when he linked an improbable line of shallow monos to create The Essential, XI (5.14d).

Getting There

See directions on the Burggrub Page.

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