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Routes in The M

Elevation: 1,410 ft
GPS: 42.764, -90.406 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,959 total, 58/month
Shared By: Adam Donaldson on Mar 8, 2015 with updates
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE
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Description

Big hill, you can see it driving S to Platteville after the Belmont Mound. Great view, especially for sunsets - not uncommon to encounter people by the benches at the top. The boulders are a little more sheltered from the common track.

Because of the character of the rock here, please please please DO NOT CLIMB ON WET SANDSTONE. Sandstone can lose as much as 75% of its strength when wet. If you're wondering how to assess the dryness of the rock, consult this: thoughtco.com/how-to-assess….

Problems are sorted left to right when you're standing on the stairs facing uphill. Some approaches are 15-20 minutes, while others are less than 5.

The sandstone here is in poor condition, but a few boulders have a little more gumption. This may be the result of layers of graffiti deposited over the years. Keep an eye out for broken glass, cause it's everywhere. Spring time is mud time. The rock that seems to hold up best generally faces east. There are at least two walls on the north end that certainly reach 30 feet. The north seems a little more untouched, minus a possible resident. Most of the bushwhacking is very slow going, so good thing there's trails that lead to boulders on both the north and east ends. The north approach is more than 3x as long. There's a map of the east bouldering in the photos... north map to come out after the leaves drop maybe. Most rock appears virgin (why would anyone want to climb this?), while other boulders may have been climbed in the past. If you have a past FA you'd like to share with us, give the area a comment and someone will get around to edits.

Getting There

When on highway 151, take the exit for Platteville XX. Follow Co Rd XX East (left if exiting from 151 South, right if exiting from 151 North) for about a mile, then turn left onto West Mound Rd. Go straight on this road for a little over 2 miles.
There will be a large white M on the western side of the mound. There's parking at the base of the M. Climb the stairs and see some trails to the right and left of the benches and picnic tables.
The trail to the right will lead you to the bitch slab and a few other boulders all within 5 minutes of each other. See the map in the photos.
The trail to the left leads to the north bouldering, which is further and less developed. There are a handful of alright boulders scattered on the E-facing slope, most far from clean. Stay high on the ridge to find lots of sandstone square footage but very little potential. Stay on the "center" trail along the mini 'canyon' until you reach... a sudden drop off! No kidding, be careful. If your surroundings fit that description, you're on top of the East Tall Wall.

Reaching Bitch Slab area from stairs (see map in photos) - stay right on trail and head downhill until you reach a short cliff with a juniper. You'll be on top of Blue Lines. Either backtrack a few feet and continue downhill slightly to the left, or use the trees on Blue Lines for a quick downclimb. The backside of the slab should be visible to you from here.

Reaching Pride Rock area from stairs (see map in photos) - at the first intersection, stay right as you would for bitch slab. At the second intersection, take a left. You'll pass the third intersection by continuing on level ground instead of heading downhill back to the slab. At the fourth intersection, take a right. If you reach a short drop off here, you didn't go far enough before you took the right.

Reaching Pelo del Perro boulder from stairs (map to come soon) - look as far left as you can from the top of the stairs. The furthest left bench (not a picnic table) has a trail running directly in front of it, take this trail north into the forest. There's some deadfall across the trail as you walk. After ~10 minutes expect to begin seeing sandstone. Keep your eyes right of the trail. Shortly, you will see the backside of a short, shitty slab sticking out of the ground. Take the left just there that goes uphill, exiting the mini 'canyon'. Stay left on this trail. You'll slowly meander downhill after the short uphill that takes you out of the 'canyon'. After 4-5 minutes, when you reach an area with little growth on the ground but lots of sticks, branches, and scattered pole size trees, look for a left fork heading downhill steeply. The right heads back uphill and into more vegetated/flat area. This downhill trail will level once, with the Luna Moth Boulders on your left, become steeper, then level out again before heading back uphill. Take a left around this change to uphill when you can see rock face on a short angled boulder, right along the trail to be turned onto. This trail will make a right turn after the short angled boulder and take you to the Pelo del Perro boulder. The east wall is sheltered by a people-height slab. Uphill are the Sin Fe Slabs. Downhill is the Dogfood Boulder and The Poopdeck. The climbing here is generally overhanging, with >90deg faces being extra dirty.

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Thanks a lot pdk! We've been out there on a 3-day weekend cleaning up the routes we've found so far. Oct 17, 2015
pdk
Janesville, WI
pdk   Janesville, WI
POSTED A PIC WHICH VAGUELY SHOWS ROCKS IN CLEARING ON TOP RIGHT. Oct 15, 2015
Thanks pdk, we'll be sure to cover that area a little more thoroughly. Sep 19, 2015
pdk
Janesville, WI
pdk   Janesville, WI
Went to school at UW-P and visited the M-Mound on several occasions. Back in early 80's there was a lot of bouldering rocks near the top and right of the large M. I was there in the fall of 2014 and so much is hidden by cedar and scrub brush....could very well be a hidden gem. Sep 19, 2015
Thanks folks. Unfortunately myself and the others who have been checking the area out are also checking out of Platteville for the summer very soon. Tune in next fall for another exciting installment. May 7, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Looking much better! Apr 14, 2015
Went back out and gathered a little more data. Big improvement I think in location descriptions, let me know if it's not the improvement I think it is. Going out occasionally to try and find/clean up boulder routes. We'll try to take a GPS and a camera next time we're back, especially for the left trail as the area we found back there is fairly difficult to navigate to.
We're hoping to get some OK bouldering going here as it would be short drive compared to 30+ minute drive to Dodge and Castle Rock.
Don't hesitate to bring forward comments as this is the first real contribution I've made to MP. Apr 13, 2015
Thanks Chris. I'll take another trip out to the M someday soon and take pen and paper. Mar 26, 2015
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
A user suggested you flesh out the directions for folks not familiar with the area. Nice addition. Mar 9, 2015

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