|GPS:||42.764, -90.406 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||5,866 total · 104/month|
|Shared By:||Adam Donaldson on Mar 8, 2015|
|Admins:||Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge|
Because of the character of the rock here, please please please DO NOT CLIMB ON WET SANDSTONE. Sandstone can lose as much as 75% of its strength when wet. If you're wondering how to assess the dryness of the rock, consult this: thoughtco.com/how-to-assess….
Problems are sorted left to right when you're standing on the stairs facing uphill. Some approaches are 15-20 minutes, while others are less than 5.
The sandstone here is in poor condition, but a few boulders have a little more gumption. This may be the result of layers of graffiti deposited over the years. Keep an eye out for broken glass, cause it's everywhere. Spring time is mud time. The rock that seems to hold up best generally faces east. There are at least two walls on the north end that certainly reach 30 feet. The north seems a little more untouched, minus a possible resident. Most of the bushwhacking is very slow going, so good thing there's trails that lead to boulders on both the north and east ends. The north approach is more than 3x as long. There's a map of the east bouldering in the photos... north map to come out after the leaves drop maybe. Most rock appears virgin (why would anyone want to climb this?), while other boulders may have been climbed in the past. If you have a past FA you'd like to share with us, give the area a comment and someone will get around to edits.
There will be a large white M on the western side of the mound. There's parking at the base of the M. Climb the stairs and see some trails to the right and left of the benches and picnic tables.
The trail to the right will lead you to the bitch slab and a few other boulders all within 5 minutes of each other. See the map in the photos.
The trail to the left leads to the north bouldering, which is further and less developed. There are a handful of alright boulders scattered on the E-facing slope, most far from clean. Stay high on the ridge to find lots of sandstone square footage but very little potential. Stay on the "center" trail along the mini 'canyon' until you reach... a sudden drop off! No kidding, be careful. If your surroundings fit that description, you're on top of the East Tall Wall.
Reaching Bitch Slab area from stairs (see map in photos) - stay right on trail and head downhill until you reach a short cliff with a juniper. You'll be on top of Blue Lines. Either backtrack a few feet and continue downhill slightly to the left, or use the trees on Blue Lines for a quick downclimb. The backside of the slab should be visible to you from here.
Reaching Pride Rock area from stairs (see map in photos) - at the first intersection, stay right as you would for bitch slab. At the second intersection, take a left. You'll pass the third intersection by continuing on level ground instead of heading downhill back to the slab. At the fourth intersection, take a right. If you reach a short drop off here, you didn't go far enough before you took the right.
Reaching Pelo del Perro boulder from stairs (map to come soon) - look as far left as you can from the top of the stairs. The furthest left bench (not a picnic table) has a trail running directly in front of it, take this trail north into the forest. There's some deadfall across the trail as you walk. After ~10 minutes expect to begin seeing sandstone. Keep your eyes right of the trail. Shortly, you will see the backside of a short, shitty slab sticking out of the ground. Take the left just there that goes uphill, exiting the mini 'canyon'. Stay left on this trail. You'll slowly meander downhill after the short uphill that takes you out of the 'canyon'. After 4-5 minutes, when you reach an area with little growth on the ground but lots of sticks, branches, and scattered pole size trees, look for a left fork heading downhill steeply. The right heads back uphill and into more vegetated/flat area. This downhill trail will level once, with the Luna Moth Boulders on your left, become steeper, then level out again before heading back uphill. Take a left around this change to uphill when you can see rock face on a short angled boulder, right along the trail to be turned onto. This trail will make a right turn after the short angled boulder and take you to the Pelo del Perro boulder. The east wall is sheltered by a people-height slab. Uphill are the Sin Fe Slabs. Downhill is the Dogfood Boulder and The Poopdeck. The climbing here is generally overhanging, with >90deg faces being extra dirty.
Days w Precip