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The Tooth

Washington > Central-W Casca… > Snoqualmie Pass Area

Description

Rocky peak just northwest of the Alpental ski area, on the Chair Peak ridge. This is probably the most popular summit rock climb in the Cascades, so beware of crowds and Mountaineers training climbs, but there's more than one worthy route to climb on any given day. Rock is volcanic and generally good.

Getting There

Summer - Hike up the main trail until reaching a sign designating the start of the Source Lake Overlook trail. Take this trail, which minimizes elevation loss, to the valley to the south below the east face of The Tooth. There is a good climbers path with cairns to guide you.

Winter - Hike up the main trail all the way to Source Lake, then turn south in the valley. Hike up the valley until you are below the east face of The Tooth. Due to significant avalanche danger there, do not follow the summer path.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View on the summit. Shot in June 2021
[Hide Photo] View on the summit. Shot in June 2021
The Tooth viewed from across the choss bowl, to the southeast. Tree-covered ledge of south face route clearly visible.
[Hide Photo] The Tooth viewed from across the choss bowl, to the southeast. Tree-covered ledge of south face route clearly visible.
Down climbing the north ridge after soloing the south face
[Hide Photo] Down climbing the north ridge after soloing the south face
You are looking at the East Face of The Tooth with Pineapple pass (horned feature) on the left. Shot in June 2021
[Hide Photo] You are looking at the East Face of The Tooth with Pineapple pass (horned feature) on the left. Shot in June 2021
Approach from the talus field. There is a small gap directly above the hiker's shoulder which can be scrambled up (4/5th class) or one can go around the next little peak and go around the backside to gain access to the first pitch. Helmet up!
[Hide Photo] Approach from the talus field. There is a small gap directly above the hiker's shoulder which can be scrambled up (4/5th class) or one can go around the next little peak and go around the backside…
The full jawline. The Tooth is the rightmost prominent spire.
[Hide Photo] The full jawline. The Tooth is the rightmost prominent spire.
Pineapple Basin. The Tooth (E Face) and Hemlock Peak
[Hide Photo] Pineapple Basin. The Tooth (E Face) and Hemlock Peak
West side start tooth winter 91
[Hide Photo] West side start tooth winter 91
Winter east face(upper variation) Tooth winter
[Hide Photo] Winter east face(upper variation) Tooth winter
David Whitelaw's artwork showing some routes on the West side of the Tooth.
[Hide Photo] David Whitelaw's artwork showing some routes on the West side of the Tooth.
Beta on hold variances.
[Hide Photo] Beta on hold variances.
You are viewing The Tooth from the Snow Lake approach. Shot in June of 2021
[Hide Photo] You are viewing The Tooth from the Snow Lake approach. Shot in June of 2021